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Benji Dude

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Everything posted by Benji Dude

  1. Forgeworld minis are nice enough on their own but with you painting them JoeK my eyes may melt from all the awesome!
  2. Looks awesome JoeK, good luck with the kickstarter!
  3. Tis a great shame GW have killed off the Specilist Games range, personaly can't see why they didn't just move it all over to finecast. What's even more crazy is how fast it's all sold out, even the forgeworld stuff has sold out in a blink of an eye. My Tau BattleFleet won't be getting any bigger, which is a real kick in the teeth... love my ForgeWorld battlefleet...
  4. I tend to just use a file for most mold lines but some kind of craft knife is always good to have nearby.
  5. Looks nice dude, my only real complaint about it is the mold lines.
  6. Looks really nice Cocky, what part is "missing"?
  7. How delightfully ugly JoeK! Are you going to get some gloss on him and give a layer of nasty sweaty slime?
  8. Sorry for the late reply I've been ill and preoccupied with real life. Aww thanks very much. Nope, sorry as Halonic said, combat and determinning what is needed to hit on is based on your WS and your opponents WS. You're not going to be hitting on 2's in combat though, you can't, unless you have a special rule that says you do, which are very few and far between. lol I wish that were the case but alas, the extra armour allows you to ignor the "Crew shaken/ stunned" result on the vehicle damage chart, which can help keep it mobile. It may be worthwhile downloading this PDF FAQ for the Ork Codex which brings it all up to date with 6th edition rules. Last thing you want is to build a great army list only to find that some of the models have had their rules changed slightly and become inneffective. Yeah unfortuneatly the Big Mek only allows you to take a Def Dread as a Troops choice, the Killa Kans don't get that boost, Personally it seems a little backwards to me, the Killa Kans are small, especially compared to the Def Dread, you'd have thought the Killa Kans would become troops long before they rolled out the ol' Def Dread. Oh well.
  9. For a guide you're best looking at the rule book, or finding a store that'll do demo games for you to give you the basics. However, here's a quick and nasty rundown of the stats for you! WS = Weapon Skill, this is used in close combat to determine what is needed on a 6 sided dice in order to hit (bigger nubers are better) BS = Balistic Skill, this is used when shooting any ranged weapon. If you take the Balistic Skill of a model (The Deff Dread is BS 2) and take it away from 7 that is what you need to roll on a dice in order to hit. In this case you'd be needing a 5 or more (7-2=5) in order to hit. So like with Weapon Skill bigger numbers are better. S = Strength, this is how strong the model is and is used to determine what roll is need in order to wound an opponent (bigger numbers are better). In combat you'd use the Deff Dreads strength to wound, when shooting you'd use the Strength of the gun to wound. However in the case of the Deff Dread, because he has "dreadnought close combat weapons" his strength is doubled so instead of being Stength 5 he is strength 10 when wounding. T = Toughness, this is how tough a non-vehicle model is and is used in conjuction with the enemies Strength to determine how hard it is to wound (bigger numbers are better). I = Initiative, this is how quick to respond the model and determines in what order the model hits when in combat (bigger numbers are better). W = Wounds, this is how many times a model can be wounded before dieing (bigger numbers are better). A = Attacks, how many combat attacks the model has, the higher the number, the more dice you get to roll. Armour, Front/Side/Rear, is how tough a vehicle is to damage. The number shown (in the case of the Deff Dread 12/12/10 respectively) is the total you'd need on a roll of a dice with the Strength of the weapon added to it. For example a Space Marine Las Cannon is Strength 9 (S9) so you'd need a roll of a 3 to glance the armour (9+3=12) or a 4 or more to penitrate the armour (9+5=13) and possibly destroy the vehicle. Ld = Leadership, this is how brave a model is, the bigger the number the less likely they are to run off when team mates start dieing around them. Leadership Tests are done on 2D6 (Two 6 sided dice) added together, so obviously bigger numbers are better. Also as a guide line, average dice roll on two dice is 7. Sv = Save, this is how tough a model's armour is, once wounded a model gets to make a Save throw to see if the weapon bounced off the armour or not. The lower the Sv value the better the armour as you have to equal or better the Sv value. For example Ghazghkull Thraka has a 2+ Sv meaning, when ever he is wounded he needs a 2 or more on a dice roll making him very resilient. So with all that you can see (assuming I've describe it all clearly) that the Deff Dread (as with most Orks) is more focused towards combat with his slightly better than average WS and his piss-poor BS. Looking at his rules it seems the only real choice is to give him more Close combat weapons, as each additional close combat weapon gives him an additional attack, potentionally giving him a total of 7 attacks, (3 attacks basic, +1 attack for having two close combat weapons, +1 attack if he charges, +2 attacks for 2 additional close combat weapons) which is alot of attacks. Yes it perhaps makes him a little on the pricey side but he should be able to munch through anything in his way. I wouldn't worry too much about him getting picked off early as at armour 12 most infantry weapons won't be strong enough to glance the armour and with careful placement you can minimise the threat from heavy weapons. Hope that helps.
  10. Awesome job on the paint work there! Looking really nice. As for your weapon conundrum, it depends on what you want him to do. Do you want him to kill swayves of infantry? Or hunt tanks and other vehicles? If you're going infantry killing then, I'd probably go with the Big Shoota as you'll get more use out of it for more of the game (with it's 36" range), though at BS 2, you are needing 5's or more on the dice to hit (with 3 dice) so you may shooting into the sky more than anything. Which is where the Skorcha is better, as you don't roll to hit, just place a template and roll to wound any models caught under the template. The strength of the skorcha isn't too bad and you'll be wounding models on a roll of 3 or more. Alas the Skorcha's range is only about 8" so you'll need to get right up and personel before using it. The rocket launcher is a pretty standard rocket launcher, maybe a little on the weak side for some of the tougher tanks out there. So you'll be relying on hitting the side armour a lot of the time, which is harder than it sounds. You've also got to consider what else you'll have in your army. If you're going for lots of boyz with lighter guns then you'll want your def dread to be kitted out to kill any heavy stuff your opponent may take. But then if you're planning on lots of heavy weapons then you can afford to equip him with the lighter weapons to take out any large units your opponent may have. It's all swings and roundabouts, I'm afraid.
  11. Wouldn't surprise me if its gone up in price, all part of the annual GW price hike.
  12. Unfortuneatly not for subscriptions, though if you can find an indipendant retailer selling it you may get 10% off rrp, depending on their policy.
  13. I always do my priming on top of the freezer in the garage (it's a big chest freezer).
  14. Like idespair said most extras (like banners/poles) come in the box, you can get spare parts on line or, if you feel adventurous you can build them yourself. However before you go off customising every model with stuff that looks cool it's best to read the rules for the unit, find out what they're allowed and not allowed to take. No point in putting an awesome looking rocket launcher of a nob if they can only take a chopper and big shoota! Having said that, Orks are one of the best armies for kit-bashing as that's what they're all about, they have a unique ability to cobble things together and have them just, work. If you are thinking of going with Eldar you may want to talk with your local distributer about release dates for the Eldar because the rumour mill has them coming out this year with a new (and long over due) codex.
  15. Your typical "Force Organisation" will consist of: 2x HQ choices (Ghazghkull Mag Uruk Thraka would count as one of these) 3x Elite choices (I do believe heavy armoured Nobs are Elite) 6x Troop choices 3x Fast Attack choices 3x Heavy Support choices As a minimum you'll need one HQ and two Troops choices, everything else is optional. There are characters in most codexes (army books) that alter your options slightly, from what I can remember of the Ork Codex Ghazghkull lets you take the Mega armoured Nobs as troops. Which is downtright dirty! Orks in general are a pretty solid choice to go with. They're tough and know how to fight and can be pretty dependable, unless you start taking some of their fun toys, which can do a lot of random things, like the shock attack gun which can punch holes in tanks, blow up large chunks of infantry or teleport the shooter up to 18" (I think) in a random direction, amongst other things. The other good thing with Orks is you get to roll a shed load of dice, which is always fun! As a starting point, I'd look over the GW website. It's got all the models for each race organised by Organisation choice (HQ, Elite, Troop...) and a quick run down of their stats and what special rules they have (by name only unfortuneatly). If you wanted to start with a very tight force then you might want to look up "Kill Teams" which is basically a 200 point game which can be done in under 45 minutes usually. It's a dead simple way of learning the rules of the game without being bogged down by a million and one rules.
  16. Warhammer 40,000 (Games Workshop) warhammer Fantasy Battles (Games Workshop) Warmachine (Privateer Press) Hordes (Privateer Press) Warpath (Mantic) Kings of War (Mantic) Malifaux Wyrd Minitures) Flames of War (Battlefront) They're the main games about at the moment.
  17. No wonder it was a bugger to paint, you've put a stupid amount of detail into such a small model! It's a miracle your eyes didn't melt off your face!
  18. It's looking pretty solid, just make sure the hinges don't interfere with the table surface otherwise you'll get really pissed off by it sticking out and getting in the way.
  19. There's only one Chaos God worth it's salt and that's Khorn.
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