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Davros sock drawer

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Everything posted by Davros sock drawer

  1. I’ve got loads you can have. I’m away for a few days from tomorrow but pm me and I’ll send you as many as you like (or just one)
  2. Personally I find Reikland works best over white, as it's the Reikland which provides the "pink". Funnily enough, that Stormcast is the exact spare I just dug out. I'll show it with Gulliman Flesh as you have already used Reikland. Primed grey as that's all I have atm, but obviously white would be better here. Three thin coats of Corax White: One coat of Gulliman Flesh, pooling soaked up with a clean brush in any areas it collects too much. Instant face! In fact one could probably pick out her eyeball in this example, but that's where the teeth gnashing and eye-strain starts, you don't have to, and in the case of your tiny figures where they don't have visible details like that, this is the way to go (which you kinda already have). What I would just say is that the "Two to three thin coats" mantra is oh so important on this, but also to not paint the same areas while wet. It took me a long while to realise this, and I'd run my brush over the same wet areas over and over again, trying to paint them smooth, not realising I was making the paint chalky as it was drying while I was brushing over it. Do a stroke, move on, don't repaint until dry - that's the secret to smoothness.
  3. @Doctor Shark those look great and also very, very tiny. I feel I must point out that a lot of what you see in my example above is "cheating", or what some people might call "n00b tricks". Those skulls for example are painted pure white, then I apply one coat of Skeleton horde Contrast paint. I then put a tiny bit of water on my brush and thin out the paint on the top of the skull, so that more of the white shows through. That's it. No highlighting or anything. Similarly the base is just sand glued on with PVA, thin brown paint, then a dry brush of a lighter brown and then a bone colour. Boom! Instant GW style base texture. The Wolfbat itself is a series of washes, contrast paints and dry brushing. Barely anything apart from the eyes, teeth and claws have been painted in "traditionally". How did you do the tiny faces on your human figures above? They look good, but when you have faces with not much detail like that you can save yourself an awful lot of time by investing in either Reikland Fleshshade (which is a GW "wash" paint) or Gulliman Flesh (Which is a GW Contrast Paint). Paint the face white (or off white), apply one coat of your wash or contrast, hey presto instant flesh tone with free shading and highlights! When I get a minute I'll dig out a spare head to show you what I mean (assuming you don't know all this already).
  4. Stop that! I really like your Mice and Mystics paint jobs. More plz! My guy up there is mostly dry-brushed anyway. It gives the illusion that I’ve highlighted every last fold of skin, but trust me, I didn’t!
  5. Today’s favourite part of the hobby - basing. I think it’s the finality of it, but also it’s far less of a risk if you get it wrong and so I sometimes find I can play around with things a bit without fear of messing anything up. I finished this guy ages ago but never did the base until now. I really, really like the sand-based method of applying texture, it’s far more convincing than GW’s texture paints.
  6. I’m like this with Baked Beans. I can’t just warm them up like most people, I have to gently reduce the sauce and add both butter and a small amount of marmite. This makes them thick, rich, and luxurious, and they also stay put on the plate. I hate it when people just put barely warmed beans on your plate in a sea of pallid bean juice. I favour Branston as my bean brand of choice too. Heinz Schmeinz.
  7. Yes, same here. I love that they’ve added so much to it, but unfortunately it’s no longer the game I loved to actually play upon release. With every update it gets further away from that.
  8. Thank you! I’ve also switched to the sand method of basing which I believe GW actually use (rather than the texture paint they sell). I much prefer it. I followed a Darren Latham video about it, but it seems his stuff isn’t on YouTube anymore
  9. Been on a mission lately to tidy up my painting. I usually make it up as I go along, and as a result I often end up with too many layers and brush strokes. For this guy I had a deliberate plan of attack, and the aim was to execute the scheme in as few brush strokes as possible. In the end I fucked up the face enough times that it looks messier than when it was just a base coat and shade, but overall I think I am starting to see how some of my favourite painters get such clean results - or at least that it is possible:
  10. Yes, I have. It’s got a better ending than the film but overall it’s worse because you can’t see dinosaurs. The LotR films are shite, with a weird daytime telly look about them. They’re such a prosaic take on the books, lacking any atmosphere. I’ve banged on about this before but the Bakshi version of the chase to Riverrun is far creepier than Jackson’s take, and captures the feeling I had reading the books. Obviously in all other respects it’s an absolutely terrible adaptation
  11. The hotdog thing was just wonderful. My gf and I both did that at a BBQ yesterday. ”Ahhhh, It’s good to be alive”
  12. Warhammer Imperium is up for pre-order on Forbidden Planet - but issue 5 (with the exclusive figure) is mysteriously absent…
  13. Saw this yesterday and loved it. First trip to the cinema post-lockdown which may have made me more eager to have a good time, but I lol’d throughout.
  14. Fauxhammer has the scoop on the contents of forthcoming issues, so you can usually pre-order with a bit of knowledge of what’s coming. https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/warhammer-imperium-magazine-contents-list-issues-1-80/
  15. Did you freehand the face reflections onto the helmet?!
  16. I’m going to go the Forbidden Planet route if possible and be much more strict about what issues I buy. I don’t need any more Leadbelcher ta! Now that Mortal Realms is nearly done I have to say that as painting guides they’re a huge disappointment. The finished paint jobs look absolutely nothing like the versions on the cover. Fortunately I wasn’t really using them for that after the first few issues but still. The issue about doing eyes etc was particularly bad I thought.
  17. Ha! If I can stay sober enough to take any. Like you I've not been out much
  18. Yep, I'm going (on the Sunday though ).
  19. Looks good! Shading with stuff like Nuln oil on cloaks is tricky because you’re supposed to re-layer the base colour afterwards, only leaving the shade colour in the absolute deepest recesses - but that’s tricky on cloaks because the deepest bits gradually become the highest bits! I like doing this for cloaks atm: 1) Base Coat Dark Grey 2) Dry Brush a lighter colour, like Morghast Bone, or even white, which highlights the raised edges in quite an obvious way 3) Apply a Contrast paint 4) Optional - emphasise highlights if you like with a lighter colour This takes “shading” out of the equation, which like you I find a bit messy and “dirty” looking on cloaks. That’s exactly what I did with this guy. Step 1: No photo but basically prime dark grey Step 2: Dry brush all over with Morghast Bone Step 3: Apply Gryph Hound Orange contrast paint Step 4: Highlight with Bestigor Flesh
  20. Thank you @feltmonkey glad the difference is discernible. I think I get stuck in a sort of viscious circle of highlighting then shading then highlighting again, rather than getting the layering right first time. On this one I followed a fairly strict order of paint application and tried really hard to do the fewest brushstrokes possible. It’s sort of more time consuming, but also I’m not having to constantly re-paint it so I guess it’s more efficient
  21. Yeah, that’s going to be on the pile of shame for the foreseeable
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