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Davros sock drawer

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  1. GW sell plain bases to which you could add texture, rocks etc, or they do sets like these:
  2. It really did at first, but I’ve toned it down with Nuln Oil a bit as it was really quite OTT. Work in progress… I might glaze a bit of it on again once I’m happy with the weathering. Question for you guys - I haven’t done the gun at all yet. Glowing green, or should I go for a contrasting colour?
  3. Yes, I do tend to feather Terradon Turquoise out a bit with water, but like all of them it rather depends on what your base colour is. For those cloaks I highlighted up to pure white, which meant the Terradon Turquoise was perfect to blend that extreme highlight with the blue. Btw I’m trying something new with that Necron you kindly sent me - Storm Surge Green metallic colour shift (or as they say “Chameleon”)paint from Green Stuff World: It’s kinda fun!
  4. I don’t know what the exact properties are, but the “secret” seems to be in the way they dry. They are much thicker and gloopier than a glaze, and they sort of shrink away from raised edges as they dry, or seem to. I applied some to a leather strap on a Gryph Hound earlier, and it looks like it’s been edge highlighted. You can actually make your own contrast paint colours by mixing regular base paints with contrast medium, something I forget to do. Probably because I have so many contrast paints already. As for essential colours, my favourites are: Skeleton Horde. Paint corax white. One coat of Skeleton Horde. Get this: Wyldwood. A lovely dark brown. Instant wood grain over any textured wood that’s been primed white, but generally just a lovely rich brown. Terradon Turquoise. This is just a really fun, vibrant colour that really peps up anything that’s already blue, and blends really well with Aethermatic Blue (which is good for glowing effects, being like a bluer Nihilakh Oxide). I used Terradon Turquoise here on some deliberately over-highlighted cloaks as a filter: Gryph Hound Orange. Gorgeous on its own over white, but works best when mixed with Volupus Pink or Flesh Tearer’s Red over pre-shaded grey to make a nice red leather colour: Black Templar - Instant black with highlights, but also great as a Nuln Oil alternative if you thin it down. Basilicanum Grey is similarly useful but I prefer thinned Black Templar. To be honest they’re all great fun. I thought Apothecary White was a bit pointless but I recently mixed it with Gryph Hound Grey and got a nice cloth colour for my Stormcast. They all react so differently with different base coats that the possibilities are kind of endless, and that’s before you start mixing them, blending them, feathering them out etc etc. I’ve actually just put in an order for the last few I don’t have, so I’ll have the lot then! Sorry for spamming my own work btw. Just the easiest method of showing what I use. JH miniatures on YouTube is a good channel though - he does “Contrast Plus” video which are pretty amazing I think.
  5. That’s an extreme version of what I’ve been doing, albeit more simplistically with a light dry brush over my base coat. I might give the full black and white sketch a try!
  6. Yes, it helps the details pop out too. I often struggle to even read things at this scale. I'm like "Ohhh, it's a buckle!" On the regular subject of primer, I was browsing GW for paints etc. Chaos Black - £11 for 400ml. This stuff? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hycote-Black-Spray-Paint-400ml/dp/B00LOAA8PC/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=329AVNZM8G9U0&dchild=1&keywords=matt+black+spray+paint&qid=1633079031&sprefix=matt+black+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&smid=A2N5LFWHX0P87L&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRFVBRzVTUE1YUDZGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE1OTEyMVVZT0UwREdCWlUyTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODc0Njg3TjFVRkNWRTA1VU4zJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== £35 for 4,800ml! And I've used it, and it's totally fine. Or a more reasonable amount (1,600ml) for £14: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QZSP88F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2WV3QBDDFP7VL&psc=1 I really don't know how GW get away with charging so much. The Retributor Armour Spray is £18!
  7. Oh yes, don’t get me wrong @feltmonkey, I don’t not edge highlight. I just struggle doing it anywhere I can’t use the side of the brush, and where there isn’t a straight edge. I certainly should practice it some more.
  8. Ha! I know right? So many. I'm making a list.
  9. You know, maybe there was another forthcoming Metroidvania game I was thinking of that isn't on PS4 yet...
  10. Oh cool, I only have a PS4, didn't realise it was on consoles.
  11. It's a SNES cartridge that he's just blown into - "Here you go mate, it'll work now".
  12. You are me approximately 12 months ago! I have found it very therapeutic (albeit occasionally frustrating when I can't pull something off), with a very supportive community both here and elsewhere. It's also been a total money pit, and very addictive. I'm afraid your GW experience exactly mirrors mine, and I now only go in there if I need something quickly. Last time I was in there I got pounced on exactly as you describe, so I just said "I'm just here for some Skeleton Horde contrast paint please", paid and left. If the staff in there were more chilled I'd have browsed, and I'm 99% sure I would have bought something else. It's a very unpleasant shopping experience. Re. basing, I now do this quite early in the painting process too. Initially I used GW texture paints (as advised in the Mortal Realms mag), but I was always a bit suspicious because none of their official shots look like they use it. Then I saw a Darren Latham Youtube video (now sadly removed) which explains the GW method. Essentially you use PVA glue, then common or garden sand. Once dry you then paint thinly with (for example) Mournfang Brown, then over-brush it with two highlights (Skrag Brown and Ushabti Bone IIRC). Voila! Instant GW "Official" base style. Obviously you can add rocks, skulls, grass tufts etc then. Personally I think basing is great fun if you embrace it, and the earlier you do it the more finished your model will feel. And on the topic of "finish", one GW product I can really recommend, having not expected to find it useful, is their mould line removal tool: I see a lot of otherwise well painted minis with untidy and lumpy base rims - this will go around that and smooth it out so it looks all neat and professional. It'll also remove mould lines of course on the miniatures themselves. As for layering and Edge highlighting, this is one area that I've found very frustrating. I'm getting better, but I still don't really enjoy painting this way. I prefer to cheat with Contrast Paints frankly, then cheat again with Dry-brushing! Volumetric highlighting is also a different way of approaching highlights which is less complicated than it sounds, and would be worth looking up on Youtube. Do post up your work in here or the Miniatures thread, I look forward to seeing how you get on!
  13. Thank you. Pure fluke! I should finish that guy up. Like a lot of my pile of shame I get to 95% completion and then start something else.
  14. I think some people use it to take a photo reference for where light and shade should go, rather than retaining the actual undercoat. However, I did stumble upon an accidental use for it - the quilting on this guy’s tabard things was zenithal primed and then had a single coat of contrast paint applied - as you can see it has retained the zenithal prime, and it gets darker towards the bottom of the mini: Obviously the rest of the zenithal prime has been totally obscured by the metallic paint but still - it’s one possible application.
  15. Ah, I see: Dead Cells is on my radar, incidentally.
  16. I’m confused. Who is Indie Gamer Chick? And why does the face in that screenshot look different to mine?
  17. This was probably my favourite chocolate bar ever. Until they brought this out:
  18. Ah yes, that’s a slow version of the title music. It’s all good stuff.
  19. I did have to look a few up in the end, specifically some where apocalypse flasks were just hidden in the scenery. I think the compass add on is supposed to help with those, but I only got that right near the end. I also spent an absolute age trying to figure out the meaning of this but it seems to be nothing: Anyway, such a lovely game. And this track is banging:
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