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Davros sock drawer

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Everything posted by Davros sock drawer

  1. it was probably the best painted, but I just really enjoyed the narrative and movement of @Albert Fish’s entry.
  2. I'm not gonna make it this month. I could rush something, but I'm out this evening and it's just not going to happen. Next time!
  3. I’ve started mine but I’ve bitten off a bit too much with a large creature, armour, and a face to paint. The Dracoline is coming along though: (I lost the base, in case you were wondering)
  4. It is possible to drop washes into specific areas, but I find it challenging unless it’s a really obvious crevice. The detail on the models you’re painting looks quite shallow to me, but I’d be curious to see how the guy in the videos you’ve been watching does it if you have a link. Pin washes are fun. You need something like Tamiya panel line accent colour which is formulated to magically flow into recesses: Its not applicable as much on fantasy miniature figures, but yours look a bit more like they might benefit from it.
  5. Just one pointer on this - that is kinda how shading is supposed to work (at least using the "traditional" Games Workshop method) The idea is you do your base coat, apply the wash, then re-apply almost all of the original base coat, leaving the wash only in the deepest recesses. I got confused about this a lot when I tried to paint cloaks, where the recesses aren't immediately obvious - but you're supposed to re-cover almost the entire area in the original colour - again, assuming this is the method you're using. There are all sorts of other ways to do it (wet blending for example, or very precisely doing things like pin washes).
  6. Also amazing! Stiff competition this month. Not sure I'll make it, but I'll try!
  7. Thanks! I actually tried some Loaded Brush on it. Surprisingly easy. I don’t know if I actually placed the shading or the highlight in the right way, but I only wanted to sell a vaguely reflective surface. Used some gloss varnish on it and the leather which I haven’t done on a GW mini before (don’t know why, I’d do it all the time on Airfix kits)
  8. I think I get what you mean. Most of the examples I’ve seen of this piece have the mirror painted more like a gem, but I was envisioning more of a diagonal white to dark blue, and maybe back again.
  9. I think reflections of specific things would be a bit ambitious but yeah, I was thinking a vague impression of reflections. I just kind of don't know where to start. A silver base plus glazed lines?
  10. Contrast Paints. How do they work? Every time I start a Cursed City character it becomes my new favourite. Still lots of details to finish on this guy - anyone got any tips for painting the glass of his mirror?
  11. The Ortiz stuff is just like regular tinned tuna in oil. Very disappointing. Try the Sainsbury's stuff I mentioned before, it's a totally different texture, perhaps because they cut the fish differently (it looks like small, loose fillets in the tin. Or maybe that the fish in the tin is quite loose, so it is more coated in the olive oil? I dunno, but it's not like any other tinned tuna I've tried.
  12. I think those look great! And the Red Skull is definitely an improvement - really clean and neat.
  13. The area you say you struggle with (how and where to highlight) is something I also struggled with, and still do. I also found that I’d get a mini looking great with just a base coat and wash, and then make it look worse at the highlight stage. Partly it’s the “fault” of the prevailing GW style of painting which I found challenging to emulate when I was starting out (and also still do!), which is basically: Base Coat Wash Re-establish base coat Highlight Thinner highlight Final highlight The trouble is, doing the above is great in theory until you start wrestling with things like paint thickness and flow, accuracy, and the tiny size of these models. Any one of the above steps can go wrong if you for example, do too thick a base coat, or re-paint areas that are still wet, never mind deciding where to highlight a curved surface or a million folds in a cloak. Edge highlighting is HARD, but also not necessarily what you absolutely have to do. What I find, and recent GW tutorials seem to have shifted this way, is that using a greater array of tricks and shortcuts is a better way to get to the end goal. For me this is heavy use of contrast paints and dry-brushing, both of which are considered “n00b” techniques but are super effective. For example, the recent Cursed City GW tutorials use a dry brush over the initial base coat, plus a contrast paint, to essentially give you a “free” highlight. This clues you in to where best to further emphasise raised areas, and I think provides a huge confidence boost as it just looks good immediately and you can then just enjoy “colouring in” all the little details. Have a look at this video - the initial stages on the cloak are very easy to apply to any miniature. More generally, dry-brushing a model once base coated and shaded can just visually tell you where to put highlights, even without the pre-shading and contrast method above. You can always “cut in” with the base coat colour if you go too heavy on the dry-brushing. Finally, if you do over-highlight, as I frequently do (sometimes deliberately nowadays) a final coat of contrast paint can apply a filter which subtly changes the overall hue of the model, whilst also toning down any over exuberant highlights. I thought I’d finished this guy the other week, but someone on Instagram said it had looked better before I’d done the bright edge highlighting. I thought about it and realised I agreed so I applied contrast paint to tone it down again: So yeah, once you feel like spending again I’d make my next purchases some contrast paints, and a cheap set of makeup brushes for dry-brushing. Dry-brushing is magic really - if you just get some scenery, like some rocks or stone ruins or something, paint them grey, apply a wash, then dry brush them light grey or white, you’ll feel like a painting ninja. Caveat - of course this is just what has worked for me as a beginner. I’m still working all this stuff out as I go!
  14. Cool. I shall do a search. I bet Greenstuff World do something. Thanks for the tips!
  15. Can you use that to do foam effects etc, or would it be strictly for clear/coloured water?
  16. Ah, see that’s something I hadn’t considered! I have a vague notion to do a river crossing scene. Well, a stream at least. So like, the mini would have its feet on stones in shallow water maybe.
  17. Does anyone here have any experience of creating water effects for dioramas etc? I’ve got an idea I’d like to try...
  18. Beans are a good way to make a salad feel substantial. I like Borlotti beans as they're not too mushy from the tin, with thinly sliced red onions which I steep in balsamic vinegar. That provides the acid of the dressing. The oil of the dressing is provided by the olive oil from a can of fancy tuna. This stuff is amazing, a world away from regular tinned tuna https://www.sainsburys.co.uk/gol-ui/product/fish-/sainsburys-ventresca-tuna-filets-in-olive-oil--taste-the-difference-115g I drain the beans and add to a bowl, then put the tuna in, oil and all, then the red onions. I then add either salty black olives, or capers. Combine. Then I add lots of chopped flat leaf parsley, black pepper (no salt because olives), and whatever salad leaves you like. I am currently enjoying butterhead lettuce and halved cherry tomatoes. If you add some flatbread or similar it can be a pretty filling meal.
  19. That’s so cool! Lot of mini to paint though!
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