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ianinthefuture

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Everything posted by ianinthefuture

  1. I have exactly the same. Am going to test SFX etc games on the jailbreak now so WE ALL KNOW FOR SURE.
  2. Honestly I find Amazon more of a Wild West than eBay these days. It's far from perfect, but there is more accountability on the latter. Also I've ordered from that seller before and everything was fine.
  3. On Super NT? It still doesn't have Super FX, S-DD1 or SA1 games, as far as I know. And I don't think it can have them. It's not a huge list of games to miss out on, to be fair, and it's a big step to pay £150 or whatever it is for an FXPAK on top of the Super NT just for those few games, but there are some absolute bangers in the incompatible list - Kirby's Fun Pak, Street Fighter Alpha 2, Mario RPG, Yoshi's Island, Starwing, Doom (shh I like it), and.. err.. PGA Tour 96 if you like that.
  4. As Colonel Panic says, jailbreaking doesn't add this stuff no. I'd say it's actually mandatory to pick up an FXPAK if you're going down the jailbreak-ROM route with a Super NT. You don't need one for MegaSG, I believe it even runs Virtua Racing through pure Jailbreak. Admittedly I do have a Mega Everdrive Pro, but that's because it plays Mega CD games and 32X (with 32X hardware). But for pure Mega Drive you just need the jailbreak.
  5. And they're still in stock a week-and-a-bit later. (Just for the historical record when, after they've sold out in future, someone claims it's 'impossible' to get Analogue hardware) I love mine so much I want another, but that's too stupid even for me.
  6. eBay has lots of ML2032s going around, a lot with replacement quick-swap caddies included. They're very easy to fit - desolder and remove the old battery prongs, solder the new caddy in the same holes, slot the battery in. Stuff like this. Don't get an LIR2032 that some people recommend, they're the wrong voltage or something. The one you link is right. But if you don't want to replace the caddy, I think the original tabs can work on a new battery. I wouldn't be keen soldering something directly to a battery, but that might just be me.
  7. Tested all, all working fine (as in loaded to game, tested for a minute or two). As I said to Darran, had this thing for pushing four years now and I cannot think of a single game that hasn't worked. Smarter people than I have said things about compatibility here (namely this darcagn person), but in short: everything works apart from some Bleem! discs, which were being hacked to work as of the other year. No idea if they have been. I've used a Cruzer Blade USB 2.0 stick, a generic cheap-ass USB 3.0-to-SD stick with SanDisk SD cards, and an M.2 SSD (via a USB 3.0 C-to-A adaptor), all worked fine. I do know some people have had issues with their storage media, but I've not had any myself. I honestly don't know if yours will work but I just assume it will so long as things are formatted according to the guides and you're not using shitty media. Which you're not. train of thought correction: At one point I used a USB-to-micro SD solution that did see some issues - games would return to the menu rather than load, hang on the Dreamcast logo, stuff like that. Was so long ago I actually forgot about it til now. But all the ones above worked fine. I use this jury rigged nonsense, it's perfect (and it's all cheap AliExpress crap):
  8. (I'm still not on commission) Right, press the open button to get to the DC menu. Otherwise it thinks there's a disc in there. Tested all those you mentioned, every single one worked fine and with no visual problems using a USB-GDROM - Le Mans 24, Sega Rally 2, SF Alpha 3, Tokyo Highway Challenge, Frogger 2: Swampy's Revenge, and NBA 2K2. Loaded every game through to actually playing it for a couple of minutes, all fine. My DC has a DCDigital, so circumvents most/all issues the Dreamcast has with TV cables. That's on the console/games/cables, not the ODE. Where are you getting your Legally Acquired Backups from? They might be at fault. Straightforward, clean, unmolested GDI rips are the best bet. There's a lot out there that have been tinkered with over the years. I haven't had a problem with any game I've played using USB-GDROM, and I've been using it since 2017. I do think it matters what rip you use. Happy to test any others just to be sure.
  9. I've always, even since kid-age, been turned off by peripherals. Rightly or wrongly, they've just always been a barrier between me and bothering with something. Think we had a dance mat for the PlayStation, and the obligatory light gun of course, but nothing else. If a) peripherals are cheap enough and b) the games that use them are actually worth playing, and c) see a) again, I might have a look at some point. But then there's also that I got distracted ultimate-ising other consoles.
  10. Controllers, nothing else. I have a couple of different wireless solutions - a Brook adapter so most Bluetooth pads can be used, and a Dreamconn. And a Retro Fighters wired controller, which I actually use the most as it's very good indeed.
  11. Also with the DAC you can play using a 32X plugged into the Mega SG. And that's why I bought one: because I hate having money in my bank account, apparently.
  12. Mnemo (the creator) fixed this for Daz, by the way. Just needed a different, specific, unlock code. He's curt and often slow to respond, but I've never heard of him not helping people who have issues with his kit. It's part of why I'm a fan of the USB GDROM. I'm still not on commission.
  13. Uploaded all the assets they sent over as I am both kind and handsome - check it if you want to see some renders.
  14. He's also removed it (see later in those threads). The code it's asking for now is a 'proof of delivery' thing. You mail him, he sends you a code, you enter it once, it's done. Just been talking to Darran, I thought the code was generic but it might be specific to different units.
  15. You'd think, yes. I opted for this one: https://boutique-dragoncity.myshopify.com/collections/dreamcast/products/dreamcast-alimentation-dc-psu Not necessary It'll be an external power brick - 12v minimum 3a, with a connector that fits the new PSU (usually 5.5mm by 2.5mm - a standard measurement). I got one of these, it's perfect: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D71J32S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not with the new PSU Not hugely necessary Re-record, not fade away Not with a new PSU No idea on this, I have DCHDMI because who needs savings to fix the boiler The cheap-ass HDMI adapters that are everywhere - Bitfunx, Pound etc - are decent enough as a stopgap I use a cheapo M.2 SSD with a USB adapter, fits nicely inside the housing. Some people report certain brands not working and recommend using a USB2.0 stick, but I've used plenty of USB3 stuff and had no issues. But it is a bit of a roll of the dice. (I got this one in 1TB, I didn't get it for the DC but that's where it's ended up being used) Prefer clonazepam myself, but yes A new fan! Because there's a fan mod too - helps it run a bit cooler and makes it a lot quieter than the stock fan. Not 100% necessary, definitely nice to have though. This explains the process, but honestly you can get premade kits on eBay that cut out 90% of the faff. Oh and you can replace the battery with a caddy that lets you easily install replacement batteries, switch out a resistor for a resettable one that bypasses a potential problem with the controller board dying when something's plugged in when the console's switched on, and you can solder in a new blue LED to make it all a bit sexier. They're all nice-to-haves too, cost a few quid for a pack of all those bits but you would need to solder them in yourself. Source: spent way too much modding my DC and the others I did up.
  16. That looks like a regular battery just with a wire to connect the + or - terminal, whichever one it is. Perhaps the battery was replaced with one that didn't have the metal legs the original did, so a wire's taking its place. It's certainly not the usual quick-swap battery cradle mod.
  17. As far as I know Satiator hasn't yet implemented multi-disc support, but the majority of multi-disc games let you save at the disc swap screen, so you can just reset and choose the next disc, then reload your save and continue. Ditto for Fenrir. No idea how MODE works in that respect. There are some games that don't let you save at disc swap time, which are apparently: 3x3 Eyes - Kyuusei Koushu S (JP) DeathMask (JP) Desire (JP) Devil Summoner - Soul Hackers (JP) Doukyuusei 2 (JP) Eberouge (JP) Gekka Mugentan Torico (1M) (JP) Gekka Mugentan Torico (2M) (JP) Haunted Casino (JP) Lunacy (US) Lunar 2 - Eternal Blue (JP) Prof Abrasive has promised multi-disc support at some point, but given the lack of it stops you from playing 11 games properly I guess his attention is elsewhere for now.
  18. Issue 53 is out there - https://wireframe.raspberrypi.org/issues/53
  19. I don't think it actually comes with instructions, but there are instructions online anyway. It's just unscrewing the GD-ROM drive and bolting the USB-GDROM onto the plate, then re-seating it. Very straightforward. Also do make sure to email him when it arrives as he's implemented the need to enter a one-off code after a certain amount of time to acknowledge you've received it (a pop up message comes on screen, you enter the code he's told you, you never have to do it again). I think it's his way around people claiming lost packages/people nicking packages.
  20. I said before, I don't buy it. The review (posted earlier in the thread) does not read like an 8 at all, it's too dismissive and shoulder-shruggy about the game. Not usually one to don the tinfoil hat, but in this case I do think it's an exercise in face-saving after they realised everyone else in the world had given it 900%.
  21. I put myself on camera because.. nope, no idea.
  22. Doubt I will be at all, to be honest. Bought a few broken DCs as a fixer-upper lockdown hobby, they're all gone to friends (and non-friends) now.
  23. Everyone forgets USB-GDROM, the best ODE for Dreamcast. I've used three - one in the personal machine, two in machines I did up and sold on. It's the best ODE (unless you care about pretty menus, in which case it's... not).
  24. (about £85 after they add on VAT at checkout) (still a bargain) (does this mean the OSSC Pro is coming soon?)
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