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  1. Also, the bit in that interview about exactly this sort of thing. YouTube just saying "do what the algorithm demands" and consequently, everything being the same shit.
  2. Don't undersell yourself on your own artistic input. You have established a clear and distinctive style for yourself that is a merit in itself. Your miniatures look like your miniatures, not like someone else's. And you style is amazing in its own right.
  3. The fine highlights on the scythe handles are surprisingly easy. I undercoat with Corax White spray. The handles are then painted with Gore Grunta Fur contrast paint. The highlights are picked out by running Cadian Fleshtone along them using the side of a size 1 brush. So I make sure there is not too much paint on the brush and rub the edges on the handles with the bit about halfway down from the tip. Some bits get a second pass of that. The plants that are not your common tufts are Sphagnum mosses that I pick up while walking in the woods. Just look at dry stone walls, or under trees on a walk out. You will soon start to notice the stuff. I try to pick it up when it is dry because I don't want it to go mouldy. I dry it out completely at home by just leaving it lying about. If you keep it in the dark it stays green, if you leave it in the light at fades to yellow. I stick it in place with superglue, which is important because it is really fragile. The superglue is absorbed by the stuff and then sets, making it tougher and preserving its colour to some extent, although it still fades to yellow in time. I love your Lady Olynder. I have that one in my pile of shame. I will get to it eventually.
  4. Beautiful stuff. A collection worthy of White Dwarf. Send them photos.
  5. Brilliant. Looking forward to it. I have not actually played in ages, just GMing.
  6. What Doctor Shark said. The edge highlighted one looks artificial.
  7. Have you considered transparent perspex bases that you can see the tiles through?
  8. I think it is one of the best games they do, but I would not recommend it for a 10 year old. It is much more dense and simulation like than most of their games. It feels to me like it specifically named at veterans rather than newcomers. There are a lot of rules. The models can be fiddly to assemble and most are big so take some painting. But if you do get into it it is great. Fab models, nice scenery, good game, interesting lore. Lots of options without going completely bonkers. If you are looking to try out something with a 10 year old though, maybe Kill Team or Warcry will suit you better.
  9. Reluctant as I am to give assholes traffic. What are you talking about here? I am curious enough to hold my nose and glance 'tween split fingers before nauseously checking out. Good alternative to that toxic exposure would be a description sufficient to put me off looking for real.
  10. Also, you might be able to get back issues, on an individual basis, directly from Hatchette. I picked up a few back issues of Mortal Realms that way. Some months after they were released too. Including some of the really popular ones. Don't take that for granted though. Pre-order is more guaranteed.
  11. I agree. Though my usual style is on the warmer side. I think the difference is that the sprays aimed at contrast paints have a smoother finish, so the contrast paints over them separate more than they do over the normal base sprays. More contrast is the result. The downside is the adherence is reduced, so handling can rub your contrast paints of the edges you touch. Handle lightly and minimally. Then varnish to protect your work. When it comes to the Wraithbone in a pot, I think it is one of GW's weaker paints. It has a funny consistency, watery and slick in a way that is less easy to handle than the near equivalents like Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. I use it only for touch up where my contrast paints have spread too far. And even there I am unsure if it is the best way to get a result.
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