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  1. Scph-30003 would be the UK equivalent so it’s a simple case of transferring it over. If you’re not confident in doing so I’ll do it for free if you pay postage.
  2. Have a look at the back of your US PS2, it will have the model number scph-?????
  3. Personally I’d just grab a cheap nasty broken pal PS2 and transplant the psu into the import machine. Ensuring you have the right ones of course
  4. @Riven Yes they can be used without a battery inside just on AC but from experience it’s very easy to knock the cable out and lose everything
  5. It’s all done via software. I’ll have to check tomorrow but I may have 1 last vita and can do it all for you if you’re interested. Also have SD2Vita cards available. Pop me a PM if interested
  6. Shameless plug but if anyones after a Wii U pop me a PM. I've ended up with a few over the past year that I intended to mod but just haven't had the time and now just want rid. Will do a fair price.
  7. This really is next level shit - I’m tripping. I’m sure I just saw something my toddler watches
  8. I thought for one minute at the start it was going to be a sequel to Naughty Bear haha
  9. Thanks both, truth be told I'm not after bites or even selling the drives (unless someone wanted one). It was a side project I've been meaning to do for some time and it was strange, doing something for myself for a change
  10. It has irked me for quite some time that Sony use standard hard drives in the PS3/PS4 with firmware suited to that of a Laptop as opposed to a Game Console. What I mean by this is they have firmware on the drives that cause the HDD Heads to 'park' up if not being used. Now this is common in 2.5" drives mainly for 2 reasons. First being that if the head isn't parked and the drive is moved around a lot there is a greater chance of damage to the platter and secondly to save energy...….both features that make sense for a Laptop but in a console they really don't. If you've ever been in the XMB, then tried to browse and there's been a minor delay in the XBM, it's because of this. Likewise, on some games if you've ever got a part where there is some FMV, end of level loading etc and there's a slight stutter at the start, it's because of this. I've taken a Seagate, Hitachi and Toshiba drive (as supplied originally) tested and the APM settings have the heads parking/spinning down at 8 seconds for the Toshiba & Seagate and 15 Seconds for the Hitachi. Most manufacturers offer a solution to this if using a PC but this requires applying each time the machine is turned on, a lot of gamers also use CrystalDiskInfo to do the same thing but for consoles the only way is to effectively 'amend' the firmware. If you have a 'squeaky' drive you'll be able to hear this occurring on your PS3/4 depending on your environment. There is also a lot of evidence to show that this causes un-necessary wear and tear to the drives if it's too aggressive. Western Digital in the past few years have also snuck this onto 2.5" Western Digital Black drives which is bonkers considering it's marketed as a performance drive and testing this particular drive in a PS3 really showed the issue as it took even longer to spin up being a 7200rpm drive. So after far too many hours researching the solution (which I can't take the credit for) I have successfully been able to amend the APM settings permanently on a modern Western Digital Black to prevent this occurring. This can be amended by seconds or disabled completely but after changing it to 5 minutes it resolved all the issues I've mentioned above and unload/load cycle stats on the SMART info have been reduced accordingly as expected. The process is a PITA and has to be done via Linux and slightly different for each manufacturer however now that I have cracked it with the Western Digital Black Drive below is there anyone that may be interested in this on the forum? It's the drive below but I can get a steady supply of these for £35 each, all brand new removed from Lenovo Desktop's that had SSD's placed in them instead. So could sell them at £40 delivered including the amended firmware. I'd have to test but the other currently released Western Digital Black's should also take the setting the same way. https://www.scan.co.uk/products/5500gb-wd-black-wd5000lplx-25-hdd-7mm-height-sata-iii-6gb-s-7200-rpm-32mb-cache I suspect nobody else has noticed, put in SSDs, or not been bothered by it to be honest so if you've got this far hope it's been a little bit interesting!
  11. @Riven - I actually commend you for the effort you’re going to on your channel but just a couple of things. 1) On your videos I can tell from days of old that some of the issues you’re reporting on are when you’re running 60hz on a switched Saturn rather than true NTSC. Genuine offer - if you want a Japanese Saturn for the purpose of the channel to show a true NTSC machine then I’ll donate you one for free. 2) Disagree if you want but it’s apparent to me that you weren’t around / involved back in the day this was all going on. You keep referring to how you worked in the game industry etc but all this seems new to you. Only just finding Importplayer etc. Only a few years ago you stated that having a 50/60hz switch on a UK Saturn ‘breaks’ something yet now you must surely understand it’s the clock speed. 3) If you’re planning to do the same comparisons with PS1 then please do it with a genuine NTSC machine. Again, I’ll donate one if you want. 4) If you want your PS2 looking at, or it transferring into an NTSC machine as it let me know as I’ve never seen nothing but 100% success on genuine MI. Hopefully you already know to turn off multi disc already. And finally, Just because someone disagrees with you or proves you wrong don’t start trying to be clever and getting personal. All I’ve stated is facts. Shit like that doesn’t bother me but with the mental health of a lot of people at the moment you really should be wiser with your words. Genuine offer about the consoles btw. @Sketch - I’m hoping to get spare time to play it this weekend, let’s keep tabs
  12. @Riven - Haha thanks but if your advice on personal matters is anything like your advice on 50/60HZ and optimisation I’d rather not thanks! I just don’t like people being misadvised then potentially spending money on certain setups and configurations for something that was dead and buried back in the 90’s when in reality it’s just not correct. For someone who built his YouTube channel up based on how terrible these things are you’re the last person I’d be expecting to have to point facts out to but it is what it is. You seem convinced that you’re magically going to stumble onto something in 2020 that was missed in the late 90’s by people heavily involved in the scene and good luck with that. For all others, @Sketch summed it up perfectly with his analogy.
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