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Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


Lorfarius
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I would love to see this is you can re-host Cocky?

Doesn't look like I still have the group shot. I'd retake but most of my stuff is boxed away for a house move.

The goblin king is almost done:

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Not sure what to do with the eyes nothing I have tried yet looks right.

And whilst I'm here does anyone have any tips for priming in the cold weather? I have a horde of goblins that I'd rather not brush prime.

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Quick question.... Is there anywhere that sells sensibly priced subscriptions to White Dwarf, other than going direct.

Unfortuneatly not for subscriptions, though if you can find an indipendant retailer selling it you may get 10% off rrp, depending on their policy.

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Unfortuneatly not for subscriptions, though if you can find an indipendant retailer selling it you may get 10% off rrp, depending on their policy.

Thanks. My GF's son had a sub for his birthday last year and the renewal is due soon but I'm sure it's noticably more than last time.

Ah well, he gets his money's worth out of reading them to bits :D

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Spent about 4 hours on this yesterday. Semi wish I kept the original colour of his face but I think the green looks cool too, being an ork and all.

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This is brilliant fun.

Having not picked up the Codex yet. What weapons shall I give this beaut? How does the Rocket launcher compare to the Big Shooter / Skorcha?

Awesome job on the paint work there! Looking really nice.

As for your weapon conundrum, it depends on what you want him to do. Do you want him to kill swayves of infantry? Or hunt tanks and other vehicles?

If you're going infantry killing then, I'd probably go with the Big Shoota as you'll get more use out of it for more of the game (with it's 36" range), though at BS 2, you are needing 5's or more on the dice to hit (with 3 dice) so you may shooting into the sky more than anything. Which is where the Skorcha is better, as you don't roll to hit, just place a template and roll to wound any models caught under the template. The strength of the skorcha isn't too bad and you'll be wounding models on a roll of 3 or more. Alas the Skorcha's range is only about 8" so you'll need to get right up and personel before using it.

The rocket launcher is a pretty standard rocket launcher, maybe a little on the weak side for some of the tougher tanks out there. So you'll be relying on hitting the side armour a lot of the time, which is harder than it sounds.

You've also got to consider what else you'll have in your army. If you're going for lots of boyz with lighter guns then you'll want your def dread to be kitted out to kill any heavy stuff your opponent may take. But then if you're planning on lots of heavy weapons then you can afford to equip him with the lighter weapons to take out any large units your opponent may have.

It's all swings and roundabouts, I'm afraid.

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For a guide you're best looking at the rule book, or finding a store that'll do demo games for you to give you the basics.

However, here's a quick and nasty rundown of the stats for you!

  • WS = Weapon Skill, this is used in close combat to determine what is needed on a 6 sided dice in order to hit (bigger nubers are better)
  • BS = Balistic Skill, this is used when shooting any ranged weapon. If you take the Balistic Skill of a model (The Deff Dread is BS 2) and take it away from 7 that is what you need to roll on a dice in order to hit. In this case you'd be needing a 5 or more (7-2=5) in order to hit. So like with Weapon Skill bigger numbers are better.
  • S = Strength, this is how strong the model is and is used to determine what roll is need in order to wound an opponent (bigger numbers are better). In combat you'd use the Deff Dreads strength to wound, when shooting you'd use the Strength of the gun to wound. However in the case of the Deff Dread, because he has "dreadnought close combat weapons" his strength is doubled so instead of being Stength 5 he is strength 10 when wounding.
  • T = Toughness, this is how tough a non-vehicle model is and is used in conjuction with the enemies Strength to determine how hard it is to wound (bigger numbers are better).
  • I = Initiative, this is how quick to respond the model and determines in what order the model hits when in combat (bigger numbers are better).
  • W = Wounds, this is how many times a model can be wounded before dieing (bigger numbers are better).
  • A = Attacks, how many combat attacks the model has, the higher the number, the more dice you get to roll.
  • Armour, Front/Side/Rear, is how tough a vehicle is to damage. The number shown (in the case of the Deff Dread 12/12/10 respectively) is the total you'd need on a roll of a dice with the Strength of the weapon added to it. For example a Space Marine Las Cannon is Strength 9 (S9) so you'd need a roll of a 3 to glance the armour (9+3=12) or a 4 or more to penitrate the armour (9+5=13) and possibly destroy the vehicle.
  • Ld = Leadership, this is how brave a model is, the bigger the number the less likely they are to run off when team mates start dieing around them. Leadership Tests are done on 2D6 (Two 6 sided dice) added together, so obviously bigger numbers are better. Also as a guide line, average dice roll on two dice is 7.
  • Sv = Save, this is how tough a model's armour is, once wounded a model gets to make a Save throw to see if the weapon bounced off the armour or not. The lower the Sv value the better the armour as you have to equal or better the Sv value. For example Ghazghkull Thraka has a 2+ Sv meaning, when ever he is wounded he needs a 2 or more on a dice roll making him very resilient.

So with all that you can see (assuming I've describe it all clearly) that the Deff Dread (as with most Orks) is more focused towards combat with his slightly better than average WS and his piss-poor BS. Looking at his rules it seems the only real choice is to give him more Close combat weapons, as each additional close combat weapon gives him an additional attack, potentionally giving him a total of 7 attacks, (3 attacks basic, +1 attack for having two close combat weapons, +1 attack if he charges, +2 attacks for 2 additional close combat weapons) which is alot of attacks. Yes it perhaps makes him a little on the pricey side but he should be able to munch through anything in his way.

I wouldn't worry too much about him getting picked off early as at armour 12 most infantry weapons won't be strong enough to glance the armour and with careful placement you can minimise the threat from heavy weapons.

Hope that helps.

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I would say the one reasonable alternative there is, as you suggested earlier, the Skorcha alongside three close combat weapons (or even two skorchas and two CCWs). Very short range, but still handy to have as an option to weaken a unit before assaulting them, or to do damage to those units which can outmatch your Dread in close combat (few though they may be). Indeed, versus armies which rely on troops with only 4+ or worse armour saves (and/or cover saves) - which is a lot of them, though Space Marines are a major exception - Skorchas are particularly devastating, as they'll negate all such saves entirely.

Of course, I say this as someone who a) doesn't play 40k, and b) doesn't even collect an army which has flamers in the first place.

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Personally i'd take a rokkit launcha and an extra CC. The only benefit you get for the Mega Blasta is an extra point of AP and the ability to kill yourself faster. I'd take the Rokkit just for an extra ranged attack to ping at stuff if need be like fliers or transports that you're having problems catching and in all I think you'd see more benefit than one extra attack. Plus it's good to have these weapons spread around a little The issue with the Skorcha is that you can easily make it harder to get into CC if you kill the closest models and then need to roll higher on the charge roll meaning instead of being in close combat with a bunch of stuff that can't hurt you, you just get shot.

Or get some blutac and don't glue either on until you've had a chance to try them out.

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Exceptional. Have given you all of my +1s for the day. Thank you dude.

WS is the same as BS as in it is 7-WS= what you need to roll to hit?

I noticed in the codex it says that I can give him additional Armour plates at a cost of 15 pts. Does this mean if I put on additional armour plates on the front/side, his armour will change to 13/13/10 ?

Really enjoying this. Think i'm going to pick up 3 Killa Kans this weekend for the next job until Thraka arrives. I've also noticed that If I pick up the Big Mek HQ it allows me to take my Deff Dread as a troop choice (mentions nothing about killa kans though).

Oh, I've been offered the Ork set from Assault on Black reach for 20 quid. Think i'm going to say yes to that, if only for the DefKopters which look pretty awesome.

Shooting hits is 7 minus your BS so typical ork of BS 2 is a 5+ to hit on a single D6

Close combat hits are WS vs WS of attacker and target. Matching WS is 4+ on a D6, attacker WS greater is 3 or even 2+ whilst attacker WS less then is 5 or 6+ all on a D6 (there's a table in the back of the book)

So orks is hundreds of dice (40 boy mob is 120 dice on a charge typically) but you hit bugger all, balances out really.

Watch out for Initiative though, you can't hit bugger all if your I2 ork boy was killed five steps before by an I5 space elf

Edit: 40 ork boys (max 30)? I5 five steps before I2? I'm amazed I remember to breathe

Edited by Halonic
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So orks is hundreds of dice (40 boy mob is 120 dice on a charge typically) but you hit bugger all, balances out really.

It can be fantastic when you roll well and just annihilate an enemy unit. Then there are those times when you can't even land a single wound on a squad of Khorne Berzerkers, and they just pull you apart.

Such is the life of an Ork - remember, it's not whether you won or not, it was whether it was a good fight.

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Watch out for Initiative though, you can't hit bugger all if your I2 ork boy was killed five steps before by an I5 space elf

Aye, that was part of why I suggested flamers - as a filthy Dark Eldar, nothing pleased me more than watching an orkish* squad get massacred by my wyches before they had a chance to lay a hand on them. And nothing was more horrifying than said wyches getting toasted before they even got into close combat, leaving a couple of stragglers without the power to significantly weaken the opposing force in CC before getting punched in the face.

(of course, I wouldn't generally have chosen wyches to try and cut a Deff Dread down unless I was desperate, but you get the idea)

*or, well, most other armies' relatively ponderous squads

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Awesome!

What's that thing he's stuck on?

That's my pin vice :) . I've got a fair few, and find that most of the time it works nicely!

I just started Festus yesterday, amazing figure. I love painting boils. JoeK can you do one of your guides for him please? :)

Might be a bit tough for this one, as I'm kind of playing around with everything!

What I will say is that I started out with a base of Nurgling green, then an all over wash with a mix of sepia and blue. Back on the original colour, and then a thing green ink wash. It's then a case of using more flesh tones in the mix to stop him from turning 'too' green - the photo kind of loses some of that, but there we go.

As for the wounds and boils - I just made a thin mix of purple and red, sloshed it onto the areas, and then gently smoothed it into the green areas. The good thing with this figure is that it doesn't have to be neat :) . Because everything's nice and wet, you can play around for ages just trying out the colours, which is kind of what I was doing.

Need to work on those boils though - definitely going to be glossing them up when everything else is done - I likes my boils shiny!

Have to say it's surprisingly decent value for money this one - his backpack thing is HUGE, and there's also that poor bugger getting juice poured down his throat. Bit too much wood to do though :P

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Sorry for the late reply I've been ill and preoccupied with real life.

Exceptional. Have given you all of my +1s for the day. Thank you dude.

Aww thanks very much.

WS is the same as BS as in it is 7-WS= what you need to roll to hit?

Nope, sorry as Halonic said, combat and determinning what is needed to hit on is based on your WS and your opponents WS.

Shooting hits is 7 minus your BS so typical ork of BS 2 is a 5+ to hit on a single D6

Close combat hits are WS vs WS of attacker and target. Matching WS is 4+ on a D6, attacker WS greater is 3 or even 2+ whilst attacker WS less then is 5 or 6+ all on a D6 (there's a table in the back of the book)

You're not going to be hitting on 2's in combat though, you can't, unless you have a special rule that says you do, which are very few and far between.

I noticed in the codex it says that I can give him additional Armour plates at a cost of 15 pts. Does this mean if I put on additional armour plates on the front/side, his armour will change to 13/13/10 ?

lol I wish that were the case but alas, the extra armour allows you to ignor the "Crew shaken/ stunned" result on the vehicle damage chart, which can help keep it mobile. It may be worthwhile downloading this PDF FAQ for the Ork Codex which brings it all up to date with 6th edition rules. Last thing you want is to build a great army list only to find that some of the models have had their rules changed slightly and become inneffective.

Really enjoying this. Think i'm going to pick up 3 Killa Kans this weekend for the next job until Thraka arrives. I've also noticed that If I pick up the Big Mek HQ it allows me to take my Deff Dread as a troop choice (mentions nothing about killa kans though).

Oh, I've been offered the Ork set from Assault on Black reach for 20 quid. Think i'm going to say yes to that, if only for the DefKopters which look pretty awesome.

Yeah unfortuneatly the Big Mek only allows you to take a Def Dread as a Troops choice, the Killa Kans don't get that boost, Personally it seems a little backwards to me, the Killa Kans are small, especially compared to the Def Dread, you'd have thought the Killa Kans would become troops long before they rolled out the ol' Def Dread. Oh well.

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That's awesome Joe. A couple of questions - how do you paint wood? Also I'm painting the hobbit trolls, which are by far the biggest models I've had, and they are mostly bare skin. Do you have any tips for making them look a little more interesting?

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Have to say when it comes to wood I always find there's a bit of luck involved with me getting it right! I tend to start with a fairly mid-tone brown (bestial brown does the job - or whatever the new equivalent is), putting loads of brown wash on it and then highlight upwards with added flesh colours in the mix. I then put in a few washes of purples which seems to sort it out. In this case, I used a little bit of blue/purple around the place as well to give it some sort of interest - although that was fairly random!

Flesh is another one which gives me grief, but adding purples and blues in the recesses gives added life to it though. Whilst it's not exactly 'realistic' as such, on a small figure it really helps :)

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