Jump to content
IGNORED

Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


Lorfarius
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've painted another Gandalf:

8750445177_f2b088c354_z.jpg

It's going to be a sad day when I finally paint all of my lotr characters. Imo they're gw's best models and the new finecast hobbit stuff simply doesn't compare. Thankfully I've still loads left from when they went for buttons on ebay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry about the crap photo quality, took a snap with my phone

also apologies if this is rubbish, I am not that great a painter and am just trying to build my skills and confidence

Anyway, this is my pre-heresy Bjorn the Fell Handed which I mainly use to play Age of the Emperor games, he is just a kitbash from several other space wolves parts but I think he looks ok. He is based mostly on the old Bjorn's banner image.

post-5585-0-35657000-1369179806.jpg

post-5585-0-09309500-1369179916_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've been working on some more hobbit stuff:

This is my second attempt on this model. The large size makes judging the transitions and contrast a lot harder than what I'm used to. It is getting there I just need to be very patient with my blending

9155091471_480e2a543d_z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tis a great shame GW have killed off the Specilist Games range, personaly can't see why they didn't just move it all over to finecast.

What's even more crazy is how fast it's all sold out, even the forgeworld stuff has sold out in a blink of an eye. My Tau BattleFleet won't be getting any bigger, which is a real kick in the teeth... love my ForgeWorld battlefleet...

If you are looking for specialist games stuff try the NZ and AUS GW sites. The CCM group says there is still stock left. Not sure if you can get FW stuff though.

Cocky your painting is brilliant. I assume lots of glazes?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to leave most of my basing material in the UK rather than risk any issues with US customs so this was the best I could do. I think a scavenger hunt for new stuff is required. And yes I used mostly glazes for this. I did try some three colour wet blending but I'll need a lot more practice before it's going to be much use.

9165258569_91d72c3d47_z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I found the old metal saruman and thought it would be fun to paint it having just done the new finecast model and to test myself doing white. it's a lot less refined and the added weight makes it feel very chunky. but I find these old sculpts have a lot of charm and the big sweeping curves were fun to paint.

9448413328_b725dcebe7_z.jpg9445627737_8ca85f2d1d_z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's an early wip of what I am currently working on:

I am trying to add a lot more contrast with deep shadows and bright highlights. the dress is proving a bit tricky to keep everything balanced but I'm pleased with how the top half is looking.

9455565884_54cd77b10b_z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice Cocky. I loveEowyn's basing.

When you say you mix khaki with skin tone - what skin tone are you using? Sking tone is something which bothers me. I can't seem to get it right.

On a side note: does anyone knwo when the next Space Marines codex is due out? I ask in other forums and all I get is frothing at the mouth due to the centurions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The basic triad I use is dark flesh (vallejo game colour), khardic flesh (p3) and midlund flesh (p3). From looking at the gw website these approximate to bugmans glow, cadian fleshtone and kislev flesh. I will create variation by adding other colours such as a brown/khaki or very small amounts of red, blue or violet. For extra highlights I mix in some ivory.

I find a good way of learning about what colours to use is to try matching to photos from magazines or movie stills.

And you can always mix up your own

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool, thank you. I got some Kislev Flesh when I got back itno the hobby, but never used it as it looks very pale, and the guy at my local store complained it was too yellow and wan, so instead i've been using Vallejo Bronzed Flesh. Which is fine for the dwarves I've been painting when all you can see is the nose and cheeks, but when used on a whole face it gives a really abd fake tan look after strong tone quickshading.

I bought some Cadian Fleshtone this week, so I'll give that a go. I need to practice as I have some dwarf berserkers coming up and they're basically all skin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Me and my friends are looking into starting playing Warhammer Fantasy. I collected Black Templar Space Marines a looong time ago but have never played or collected Fantasy before. We're after everyone having different armies so I am looking at dwarfs, empire or brettonians. Does anyone have any tips on building a 1000pt army quickly and cheaply? Are battalion boxes a good place to start?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My advice is to go with Empire. They're a nice army to start with as you get to participate in all phases of the game. Dwarfs don't get to do much in the Magic phase (some may argue the Movement phase either) and the Bretonnia book is looking a bit dated now. That said if you really have a particular fondness for the models/style of an army then that should lead your decision.

As for an 1000pt Empire army, you could use the battalion boxset as the basis for this:

LORD - Battle Wizard (lvl 4 upgrade) - 200pts

HERO - Captain (with Battle Standard) - 85pts

HERO - Warrior Priest - 65pts

CORE - 20 Swordsmen (with full command) - 170pts

CORE - 10 Crossbowmen - 90pts

CORE - 8 Inner Circle Knights (with full command) - 200pts

SPECIAL - Great cannon - 120pts)

That will leave you with 70pts left over for character equipment plus a few magic items. Everything except the characters are included in the battalion box. With the characters added it should come to under £80.

Later on you can think about adding a few more bits and pieces, I'd heartily recommend at some point getting Demigryph knights as they can rip it up in combat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as cheaply goes, does it have to be GW models? If you go Empire, which is good idea plus I like Empire, Perry Miniatures make some lovely infantry and mounted sergeants, and FireForge games' Teutonic Knights are some of the best in the market at the moment, and both are near half the price you would pay for GW minis.

FireForge-Games-Teutonic-Knights-box-set

WotRpikesmall.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I couldn't help myself and I bought a dwarf army from eBay. £30 for this lot:

2 Dwarf Lords (1M 1P)

Dwarf Rune Priest (M)

2 Cannons, each with 3 Crew (1M 1P)

Mining/Treasure Cart & Pit Pony (P)

10 Dwarf Thunderers inc. command (P)

10 Dwarfs Warriors with hand weapons inc. command (P)

8 Dwarf Miners inc Command (P)

12 Dwarf Quarrellers (P)

19 Dwarf Warriors with two-handed weapons inc. standard & champion (P)

14 Slayers (13M 1P)

1 captured Slayer (P)

Should be able to field a half decent 1000 point army with that hopefully! I've heard good things about the anvil of doom and that a gyrocopter might help with getting round the board a bit quicker. Any thoughts?

Also, I know loads of you are awesome painters so any advice on getting rid of paint from a mix of plastic and metal minis would be much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes dettol is my favourite for paint removal. I like to use a little washing up liquid when scrubbing to help break down the paint.

I've been working on a more efficient painting style to help clear my collection. My aim is 2-3 hours for a standard human character model and these are my first attempts:

9627405746_aa88103248.jpg

9632634140_a259bec0dd.jpg

9629399639_369434552b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For stripping paint, I'd recommend using Fairy Power Spray rather than Dettol. As mentioned, Dettol has a nasty habit of allowing the paint to set again (although rinsing in very soapy water, rather than under a tap, can alleviate this to some extent). It will also stink out your kitchen/bathroom/miniatures/personage for a number of days.

By comparison, if you coat figures in Power Spray and leave them over night the paint should rub right off with a toothbrush and it won't form a sticky residue or clog up your sink. More importantly, you won't have to go to work smelling like a hospital.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the Dettol in Australia is different to the one in the UK. I tried to strip the paint off an Empire General using it and all I ended up with was a very clean, pine-smelling mounted general with a pleasing glossy shade. It didn't touch the paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Use of this website is subject to our Privacy Policy, Terms of Use, and Guidelines.