Rllmuk Arcade Stick Thread

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

Nice little package from Japan this morning!

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

Nice little package arrived this morning 😊

[Lying Cat]

I commissioned some art for my Arcade Stick.

 

 

I love Acrid more than I love my parents.

 

edit - I shouldn't be posting art without crediting the artist. This is them - https://chest.carrd.co/

[JamesS]

Anybody know of anywhere in the UK with Sanwa buttons and sticks in stock? I've found a few places with a handful of colours of buttons, but they mostly seem to be out of stock of reds and blacks, which is what I'm after (ideally clear reds really). Or do people order from the US?

[Lyrical Donut]

Arcadeworlduk are very good, but out of stock at the moment. I know they had a big sale recently, so I'm guess they're getting re-stocks in soon if you can wait.

[bplus]

Any suggestions for a fairly small stick? Needs to be 8 way gate, micro switched. And good quality. Anything with sanwa parts like this available?

[Lying Cat]

53 minutes ago, bplus said:

Any suggestions for a fairly small stick? Needs to be 8 way gate, micro switched. And good quality. Anything with sanwa parts like this available?

I think that Sanwa JLFs come with a square gate by default but it’s reasonably trivial to switch it out for a octo gate. Plenty of YouTube guides for it to either check out in advance to see if you’re up for it.

 

The cheapest stick that’s not shit and have Sanwa parts as standard that I can think of is the Mayflash F300 Elite. It’s only a couple of quid after that to get the gate you want.

 

the F500 Elite is a little bigger and has more space to work in though.

[bplus]

9 hours ago, Lying Cat said:

I think that Sanwa JLFs come with a square gate by default but it’s reasonably trivial to switch it out for a octo gate. Plenty of YouTube guides for it to either check out in advance to see if you’re up for it.

 

The cheapest stick that’s not shit and have Sanwa parts as standard that I can think of is the Mayflash F300 Elite. It’s only a couple of quid after that to get the gate you want.

 

the F500 Elite is a little bigger and has more space to work in though.

Thanks for this. The f300 looks like a great option for me!

 

I was googling for minimalist fight stick sticks and found this:

 

https://allfightsticks.com/

 

Thing is , they don't seem to sell preassembled sticks. But they look really nice. Does anyone know of something like these but preassembled?

[Lying Cat]

1 hour ago, bplus said:

Thanks for this. The f300 looks like a great option for me!

 

I was googling for minimalist fight stick sticks and found this:

 

https://allfightsticks.com/

 

Thing is , they don't seem to sell preassembled sticks. But they look really nice. Does anyone know of something like these but preassembled?

AFS stuff is pretty nice, but once you do the maths and start factoring in shipping (I am now assuming you’re from the UK!) the prices really start to rack up.

 

If you’re able to spend that sort of coin, want something that that feels extremely premium you could look at the Etokki Omni. It’s built like a tank and can accept both Japanese and Korean levers (you want the Japanese one if you want a hard gate) - and if you’re willing to sacrifice a button on the back can be easily modded to use a detachable wire, as it’s set cable is it’s biggest issue.

 

But again, this is an expensive option. Sadly getting any sort of custom stick in the UK is pricy - but you’ve got to weight that up against the amount of joy you’re going to get from the hobby!

 

edit - This thing is what you can use to make the Omni cable detachable. Just pop out one of the back buttons, screw this in and run a short USB-B to USB-A cable between it and the board. Works perfectly.

 

edit edit - my Omni.

 

[bplus]

6 hours ago, Lying Cat said:

AFS stuff is pretty nice, but once you do the maths and start factoring in shipping (I am now assuming you’re from the UK!) the prices really start to rack up.

 

If you’re able to spend that sort of coin, want something that that feels extremely premium you could look at the Etokki Omni. It’s built like a tank and can accept both Japanese and Korean levers (you want the Japanese one if you want a hard gate) - and if you’re willing to sacrifice a button on the back can be easily modded to use a detachable wire, as it’s set cable is it’s biggest issue.

 

But again, this is an expensive option. Sadly getting any sort of custom stick in the UK is pricy - but you’ve got to weight that up against the amount of joy you’re going to get from the hobby!

 

edit - This thing is what you can use to make the Omni cable detachable. Just pop out one of the back buttons, screw this in and run a short USB-B to USB-A cable between it and the board. Works perfectly.

 

edit edit - my Omni.

 

Thanks for the advice yeah the afs price seemed to quickly mount up

Edit: also at first I assumed that a custom stock should be cheap. Strange that a metal case plus buttons and stick quickly mount up.

 

My other option is modding my two Dreamcast arcade sticks with sanwa parts. Though that looks tricky. About twenty years ago someone on the forum modded them to work on a PS2 instead. (ps1 pad PCBs inside). I sort of regret getting them to do that.

The only thing that's annoying about the DC stick is the square gate.

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

19 hours ago, bplus said:

Any suggestions for a fairly small stick? Needs to be 8 way gate, micro switched. And good quality. Anything with sanwa parts like this available?

 

What system/s will it be used on?

 

Personally I don't rate Sanwa levers at all and will always go for a Seimitsu. The Hori Hayabusa Silent Optical is growing on me too.

[Lying Cat]

1 hour ago, bplus said:

Thanks for the advice yeah the afs price seemed to quickly mount up

 

Metal housing for the stick stars at over $100, and you're already getting into Mayflash F300 territory just for that.

 

What are you planning on plugging this into if you don't mind me asking? The thing is that if you've got a DC stick all modded up with Sanwa parts already then it might be possible to drop a Brook board in there - but that might be complicated as adding a controller board in there will almost certainly have meant soldering. Still, if you just want to wire it up to the PC, you can get: -

 

Brook Zero Pi - £29
Brook Wiring Harness - £20

 

... and you're basically good to go as that board says that it's got the terminal headers included already. It might also be sensible to buy some PCB standees because it's unlikely that the DC Arcade Stick has the screw holes in the right places for the Brook. If you want to plug into a PS4, the price goes up, and a PS5 even more. But if that's the stick you want to be using and it already has the parts you want inside, this is probably the sensible way to go. There's no soldering in this, just pushing contacts into place.

 

edit - The only thing that gives me pause for thought is the DC's start button that looks pretty non-standard. I'm not sure the Brook harness would hook straight into that connector.

[bplus]

2 hours ago, Superfamifreak said:

 

What system/s will it be used on?

 

Personally I don't rate Sanwa levers at all and will always go for a Seimitsu. The Hori Hayabusa Silent Optical is growing on me too.

Pc only. That's interesting about sanwa sticks, are the seimitsus and hori more expensive?

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

2 minutes ago, bplus said:

Pc only. That's interesting about sanwa sticks, are the seimitsus and hori more expensive?

 

Not really. Hori levers you'll generally only find if someone has taken it out of the Real Arcade Pro. The optical ones are quite expensive as they were only available in short supply through a certain US retailer or as stock in a now expensive Japanese only model of the RAP - Mine cost me 25,000 Yen all in - About £150 and that was cheap!

 

The only JLF I like is one that's had the Omron switches replaced with a set of Panasonic AM5's, an oversized actuator and the stock spring replaced with a 2lb one.

 

The thing is, you won't know what you prefer until you've tried various makes. In my sticks I currently have the following levers:

 

Seimitsu LS-32-01

Seimitsu LS-40-01

Sanwa JLF with AM5 switches, oversized actuator & 2lb spring

Sanwa JLF with 4lb spring

Hori Hayabusa

Hori optical Hayabusa

 

Before spending proper time with Seimitsu and Hori levers, I used to think the stock JLF was the dogs bollocks, but now I don't rate it at all.

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

My current selection! The RAP N arrived this morning and I had a spare set of OBSF-30RG's lying around so they went straight into it. Also took out the JLF and replaced it with a Hayabusa after swapping the shafts between the two levers.

 

Need to get some proper shelving to store them on at some point!

[bplus]

1 hour ago, Lying Cat said:

 

Metal housing for the stick stars at over $100, and you're already getting into Mayflash F300 territory just for that.

 

What are you planning on plugging this into if you don't mind me asking? The thing is that if you've got a DC stick all modded up with Sanwa parts already then it might be possible to drop a Brook board in there - but that might be complicated as adding a controller board in there will almost certainly have meant soldering. Still, if you just want to wire it up to the PC, you can get: -

 

Brook Zero Pi - £29
Brook Wiring Harness - £20

 

... and you're basically good to go as that board says that it's got the terminal headers included already. It might also be sensible to buy some PCB standees because it's unlikely that the DC Arcade Stick has the screw holes in the right places for the Brook. If you want to plug into a PS4, the price goes up, and a PS5 even more. But if that's the stick you want to be using and it already has the parts you want inside, this is probably the sensible way to go. There's no soldering in this, just pushing contacts into place.

 

edit - The only thing that gives me pause for thought is the DC's start button that looks pretty non-standard. I'm not sure the Brook harness would hook straight into that connector.

This is really interesting. I explained the DC sticks situation badly. They don't have sanwa parts, just had PCB replaced with ps1 controller PCB so they work on ps1 and PS2.

 

Even if I could just get an octogonal gate for the DC stick I might be happy. But then I hear that real sanwa (or other manufacturer parts) are way better  and I start thinking maybe a whole new stick or sanwa mod for DC is best idea.

[bplus]

12 minutes ago, Superfamifreak said:

My current selection! The RAP N arrived this morning and I had a spare set of OBSF-30RG's lying around so they went straight into it. Also took out the JLF and replaced it with a Hayabusa after swapping the shafts between the two levers.

 

Need to get some proper shelving to store them on at some point!

Good grief! That's some collection

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

27 minutes ago, bplus said:

Good grief! That's some collection

 

Given that the two sticks on the top have set me back around £600+ in total, I'm actually scared to add up how much everything there cost me.

 

If you really want a JLF, I might have one up for grabs at some point. Also, depending on what your spending limit is, I might be able to sort you out a stick.

[Lyrical Donut]

3 hours ago, Lying Cat said:

 

Metal housing for the stick stars at over $100, and you're already getting into Mayflash F300 territory just for that.

 

What are you planning on plugging this into if you don't mind me asking? The thing is that if you've got a DC stick all modded up with Sanwa parts already then it might be possible to drop a Brook board in there - but that might be complicated as adding a controller board in there will almost certainly have meant soldering. Still, if you just want to wire it up to the PC, you can get: -

 

Brook Zero Pi - £29
Brook Wiring Harness - £20

 

... and you're basically good to go as that board says that it's got the terminal headers included already. It might also be sensible to buy some PCB standees because it's unlikely that the DC Arcade Stick has the screw holes in the right places for the Brook. If you want to plug into a PS4, the price goes up, and a PS5 even more. But if that's the stick you want to be using and it already has the parts you want inside, this is probably the sensible way to go. There's no soldering in this, just pushing contacts into place.

 

edit - The only thing that gives me pause for thought is the DC's start button that looks pretty non-standard. I'm not sure the Brook harness would hook straight into that connector.

 

There isn't a whole lot of space inside the DC stick, but it's possible if you're removing the stock PCB and VMU housing. You'll also need to do some widening of the button holes for 30mm buttons as well as a bit of drilling for the mounting plate for the stick.

 

Also, adhesive standoffs are handy for mounting the board.

[bplus]

1 hour ago, Superfamifreak said:

 

Given that the two sticks on the top have set me back around £600+ in total, I'm actually scared to add up how much everything there cost me.

 

If you really want a JLF, I might have one up for grabs at some point. Also, depending on what your spending limit is, I might be able to sort you out a stick.

Thanks the offer but my limit is pretty low and I'm probably looking for something small but gets the job done. I think at this point it's probably with the f300 or try and mod my DC sticks.

 

Is the f300 a pretty decent stick? Or is it the case that once you've tried a premium stick there's no going back?

[bplus]

1 hour ago, Lyrical Donut said:

 

There isn't a whole lot of space inside the DC stick, but it's possible if you're removing the stock PCB and VMU housing. You'll also need to do some widening of the button holes for 30mm buttons as well as a bit of drilling for the mounting plate for the stick.

 

Also, adhesive standoffs are handy for mounting the board.

Yes I've been looking at YouTube videos and it's pretty much as you say. The end result is pretty cool looking though

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

7 minutes ago, bplus said:

Thanks the offer but my limit is pretty low and I'm probably looking for something small but gets the job done. I think at this point it's probably with the f300 or try and mod my DC sticks.

 

Is the f300 a pretty decent stick? Or is it the case that once you've tried a premium stick there's no going back?

 

I've actually heard pretty negative things about the f300, but have never used one personally. I will say though, once you've tried a decent stick with parts modified to your preferred spec, there's no turning back.

[Klatrymadon]

Mayflash sticks used to receive a lot of criticism for their input lag, but this was addressed in a firmware update last year. I have an F500 and and F500 Elite, and they currently perform as well as any of my other sticks, including the ones with Brook boards installed. While they're not as budget-friendly as they used to be, they're still pretty hard to beat if you're after a one-stick solution. (As others have mentioned, the Elite versions come with Sanwa parts as standard, too.)

 

The F300 would be a great choice - all you're missing with those is the ability to change the artwork, really. The sticks, buttons and function panels are the same (using Mayflash's own stuff for the F300 and Sanwa's for the F300 Elite).

 

Edit: also, Mayflash's own parts are surprisingly good! I've had the standard F300 in the past and didn't mod it for some time because it was lovely to use as it came.

[Escape]

I've a hardly used Venom to sell with Crown parts, but it has the unused Sanwa copies it came with. Dunno what they're worth these days, but I'd take an offer that isn't ludicrously low.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Official-PlayStation-Licensed-8-Button-Arcade/dp/B00NHDSINS

 

[Klatrymadon]

Has anyone used these silent Qanba sticks?

 

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/qanba-gravity-silent-arcade-joystick-choose-omron-or-cherry-mx.html

 

I've been keen to try a silent lever for a while now, but stock is usually pretty limited in the UK. I assume Qanba (like Hori with the Hayabusa) are trying to approximate the feel of a JLF with this, which would be fine, but I thought I'd ask before buying in case anyone has had any terrible experiences with them. Thanks!

[SuperFamiTom]

I'm looking to get myself set up with a nice stick in readiness for Street Fighter 6, but haven't yet decided whether I'll be playing on PS5 or PC. PS5 for me has the benefit of me being able to sit on a sofa in front of a nice big OLED. Whereas PC means I won't have to renew my PS5+ subscription, I can have the arcade stick on a desk rather than my knee and presumably slightly lower lag through my PC monitor.

 

I've been looking at the Nacon Daija stick. Before I pull the trigger on that are there any other sticks I should be looking at that will work on both platforms with no faff and are equally as good? Thanks in advance.

[MonkeyJuggleDX]

21 hours ago, SuperFamiTom said:

I'm looking to get myself set up with a nice stick in readiness for Street Fighter 6, but haven't yet decided whether I'll be playing on PS5 or PC. PS5 for me has the benefit of me being able to sit on a sofa in front of a nice big OLED. Whereas PC means I won't have to renew my PS5+ subscription, I can have the arcade stick on a desk rather than my knee and presumably slightly lower lag through my PC monitor.

 

I've been looking at the Nacon Daija stick. Before I pull the trigger on that are there any other sticks I should be looking at that will work on both platforms with no faff and are equally as good? Thanks in advance.

 

Any of the Hori Real Arcade Pro models for the PS4 should be a safe bet as with being officially licensed, they should be supported. If you want the Vewlix layout, then the RAP V or 4 Kai(Both posted on this page) will do you good. Or if you have more money than sense, go Billy big bollocks and get a VLX! If you like the Noir layout, the RAP N or Fighting Edge will do. I just got a RAP N a week or so back for £100, the FE should be another £50 on top of that.

 

Others will probably recommend other brands, but I've never had an issue with Hori sticks.

 

Also, as I've posted earlier in the thread, I'm not a fan of Sanwa JLF levers - don't fall for the hype. If whatever stick you buy comes with one, fair enough, but the stock Hori stick is good enough. Buttons on the other hand, I'll go with Sanwa all day long.

 

Current preferences are...

Levers: Seimitsu > Hori > Sanwa > Others

Buttons: OBSF > Kuro > Crown 202 > Hayabusa > PS-14

 

Horses for courses though. Everyone has their own preferences but the only way you'll find that is by buying a fuckton of different levers and buttons.

[watusi]

I've a fighting Edge and have had a Rap N and a daija before. They are all good sticks, I don't think you can go wrong with either of them.

 

That said, I found the Daija to be a little tall - It's more of a box than the FE and sits higher. the fact the top just pops up and you can easily swap components over is nice (not that I need anything other than change the ball top.

 

I'm not a stick expert though - I don't have a real preference for stick/buttons. I just like arcade sticks

[Klatrymadon]

I'd recommend a HRAP or Pro N as your safest bet, too. You can't go wrong with them - the Hayabusa stick and buttons are great, and I'm with Superfamifreak in preferring their stick to the JLF. It's a 10-minute job to swap out any parts you're not keen on, too. The Daija is a gorgeous stick but there were a lot of grumblings about high input lag when it was first released, and I'm not sure those issues were addressed in a firmware patch...

 

(Also, the Hayabusa can almost be anything you want it to be - there is an octo gate available for it if you don't like square gates, and cheap throw-shortening modifications are available if you find it too loose.)

[Lyrical Donut]

Another HRAP advocate here. Been a fan since I picked up my PS2 HRAP 20 years ago. As others have said, the stock parts are pretty good as is. Plus they're easily moddable with regards to sticks, buttons and PCBs.