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The Miniatures and Scale model appreciation thread


JoeK
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Cheers, they're really fun to paint and getting the armour the right shade was a lot of fun (it's just Contrast over a Vallejo Leadbelcher equivalent that I already owned). In fact, apart from the metal undercoat's, the rest is all Contrast.

 

I got them second hand on a whim, but the Blightkings have been just the thing I needed as the Cursed City zombies broke me a little. Cool sculpts but I just wasn't feeling painting them and they haven't come out like I wanted.

 

Stripping back the previous owners paint job on the King's (thick Zhandri Dust spray) and rebasing them was almost therapeutic.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Davros sock drawer said:

 

I think reflections of specific things would be a bit ambitious but yeah, I was thinking a vague impression of reflections. I just kind of don't know where to start. A silver base plus glazed lines? 

 


I think silver plus some glazed blobs would look okay.  But what I was getting at before is it’s like a gem, since it’s glass over a silvered surface (well, depends what you want the mirror to be made of) so like that it should be dark towards the light source and light opposite from it, as the light travels through the glass.  Although the light at the bottom is probably bigger than a gem since it’s a deliberately reflective surface.  So dark great at the top, going towards a light grey at the bottom - maybe more of a gradient than a gem.  Then you could glaze some shapes in.  I think that’s how I’d try it anyway.  

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Thanks! I actually tried some Loaded Brush on it. Surprisingly easy. I don’t know if I actually placed the shading or the highlight in the right way, but I only wanted to sell a vaguely reflective surface.

 

Used some gloss varnish on it and the leather which I haven’t done on a GW mini before (don’t know why, I’d do it all the time on Airfix kits)

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I'm currently going all in with paints (GW, Kimera, and Vallejo), brushes, and tools. I'm also halfway through converting a corner of my house into an atelier. Photos soon once I get my IKEA hanging boards up.

 

Somehow my wife doesn't seem to mind the obscene expenditure - probably because it's not video game related.

 

I've not painted anything since 1995. I might restart by entering the monthly painting contest on here. That said I might have to cook up a homebrew wet pallette as the one I just kick-started won't arrive until October/November.

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17 minutes ago, And said:

Plastic takeaway lid, folded up bit of kitchen roll, piece of baking paper - ghetto wet pallete, been using one for years. 

 

Yeah man, don't worry - I've spent the last two years watching hobby tricks and tips on YouTube. I might go with the Marco Frisoni Ferrero Rocher container method. :D Already got the white baking paper from Lidl in.

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Gf just left for her friend’s house and was like bye see you at midnight we’re going to take edibles and get all crazy

 

well well well I think I’ll reintroduce myself to the old basement and see how my boys are getting on

 

stoned painting pics for you all tomorrow

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Still working my way through my Marvel United Core box, 6 down 4 to go (been distracted after picking up a series x), still continuing to just base coat as I'm enjoying that, have tried more shading here and there and just don't do great and end up having to go back and base coat over my attempts so going to carry on as I have been and can come back to them in future if I learn new techniques.

 

I've started on iron man tonight and am having a bit of trouble using my yellow paint, I've tried using it (vallejo Sun Yellow) when doing Wasp and it was so thin and hard to use/get looking nice but eventually ended up looking alright in some parts. I've shaken it a lot but doesn't seem to have thickened up and it's hard to cover any little mistakes of red with it. Seems this may be the case with yellow paints in general. Anyone know of any good ones?

 

You can see how I couldn't get a good coverage on Wasp with the thinner parts with it (again excuse the beginner job and crappy photo - still learning) but the solid parts ended up okay on the wings and glasses.

 

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Also found metallic paint a nightmare to use when doing Ultron, just couldn't get a nice consistency although I used a wet palette and friend told me after I shouldn't with those types of paint. Are those general problems with metallic paints or is it just the vallejo one I used (think it was Gunmetal or Silver)?

 

It came out looking alright after a wash but still not great at using them either (again not great photo apologies)

 

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Was pretty happy with my Antman in the end and didn't have much trouble with him at all.

 

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Kinda beside the topic, but my local club started up last week after being shut down for covid in February last year. Anyway, popped in for a game fo Malifaux, had a blast (lost, but still), and it turns out the guy who presents Lego Masters in Australia is a member of the club! And personally I love living a world where a guy is so good at building with lego he has a fan following.

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10 hours ago, Munkienut said:

have tried more shading here and there and just don't do great and end up having to go back and base coat over my attempts

 

 

Just one pointer on this - that is kinda how shading is supposed to work (at least using the "traditional" Games Workshop method)

 

The idea is you do your base coat, apply the wash, then re-apply almost all of the original base coat, leaving the wash only in the deepest recesses. 

 

I got confused about this a lot when I tried to paint cloaks, where the recesses aren't immediately obvious - but you're supposed to re-cover almost the entire area in the original colour - again, assuming this is the method you're using. There are all sorts of other ways to do it (wet blending for example, or very precisely doing things like pin washes).

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Thanks @Davros sock drawer I did not know that, I've been following videos for the marvel united figures and the guy usually just uses a bunch of different colours to do shading and highlighting, what you say sounds a much easier way to do it especially as I only have three left from the base game then I'm on my own when i move on to the stretch goal models as there arent many videos for those not in the base game. When the guy uses washes he seems to manage to very easily apply washes into the crevices without getting much if any on the model, mine never seems to come off the brush in the same way and ends up covering a lot of paint and darkening the model which is fine for some but ruins others. I picked up a few other colours of washes to try avoid that though although yet to use them.

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It is possible to drop washes into specific areas, but I find it challenging unless it’s a really obvious crevice. The detail on the models you’re painting looks quite shallow to me, but I’d be curious to see how the guy in the videos you’ve been watching does it if you have a link.

 

Pin washes are fun. You need something like Tamiya panel line accent colour which is formulated to magically flow into recesses:

 

 

Its not applicable as much on fantasy miniature figures, but yours look a bit more like they might benefit from it.

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On 30/06/2021 at 22:40, Munkienut said:

Also found metallic paint a nightmare to use when doing Ultron, just couldn't get a nice consistency although I used a wet palette and friend told me after I shouldn't with those types of paint. Are those general problems with metallic paints or is it just the vallejo one I used (think it was Gunmetal or Silver)?

 

 

I'm a regualr user of both those Vallejo paints and heavily using the Gunmetal as a stand in for Citadel's Leadbelcher these days.

 

I don't use a wet pallet but I know that it's a swine to work with if you don't add some water to thin it - it'll clump the brush and gum up your model in next to no time. I usually add a drop of Gunmetal on a pallet and then the smallest drop of water you can managed out of a dropper bottle, yet it still ends up runny. I add a tiny bit more Gunmetal and then it usually mixes to a good enough consistency to brush on without being just silvery water.

 

Even then it can still be a bit streaky and will struggle over a lighter base coat, but with a bit of patience and care it comes out good. I'd say it's definitely on the higher end of learning curves for a paint though!

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1 hour ago, Davros sock drawer said:

It is possible to drop washes into specific areas, but I find it challenging unless it’s a really obvious crevice. The detail on the models you’re painting looks quite shallow to me, but I’d be curious to see how the guy in the videos you’ve been watching does it if you have a link.

 

 

 

Hopefully this part of the video shows what i mean, I've just used his videos to see where he applies the different colours and have tried doing the shading and highlights like he does which is usually where i end up doing too much and just going over it again in the base colour and leaving it. He does the wash things with the eyes and then around the A on his helmet and on the suit, when i tried to outline little bits like round his eyes the wash just went everywhere, I used Nuln oil instead but have also tried it with a quick shade (army painter) like he did and it was the same result. He does use the wash by painting it on for other bits though such as the leather bits which came out fine for me. It may just be me being a bit crap at controlling the paint brush which is definitely a possibility but he makes it look easy.  He may also not be the best painter or teacher or whatever but the choices are pretty limited for my models.

 

That pin wash stuff looks amazing!! He makes it look super easy to use and clean up too, I'll need to look into that.

 

@Spatial Thanks, thats good to know that its a tough one to use/master and that it didnt come out right just because of me. I'm sure I'll need to use it a lot more in future so I'll try doing the mixing thing.

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16 hours ago, Spatial said:

 

I'm a regualr user of both those Vallejo paints and heavily using the Gunmetal as a stand in for Citadel's Leadbelcher these days.

 

I don't use a wet pallet but I know that it's a swine to work with if you don't add some water to thin it - it'll clump the brush and gum up your model in next to no time. I usually add a drop of Gunmetal on a pallet and then the smallest drop of water you can managed out of a dropper bottle, yet it still ends up runny. I add a tiny bit more Gunmetal and then it usually mixes to a good enough consistency to brush on without being just silvery water.

 

Even then it can still be a bit streaky and will struggle over a lighter base coat, but with a bit of patience and care it comes out good. I'd say it's definitely on the higher end of learning curves for a paint though!


I use ak interactive true metallic paint instead of the gw or vallejo metallics. It’s wax based (I think) and is easily dilutable with mineral spirits without becoming all watery with flakes in it.  Plus, once it’s dry you can polish it up a little bit and it turns all shiny. I use Iron to give me a steel effect

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i strongly recommend Vallejo's Model Air Metallic dropper bottles for when you need one coat coverage on cold metals. like steel or silver.  It's marketed as an Air paint but its perfect consistency for brush without any need for thinning. Ive worked with pretty much every metallic paint on the market today as i focus on machinery 99% of the time. As a general purpose tool in your arsenal, its unbeatable. Once you feel as a painter you hae a better understanding of dealing wiht paints with a much freer surface tension the Vallejo Metal color range in those fancy large dropper bottles are also brilliant for layering up shades of metal colour.  This advice only holds true for cold metals lke gunmetals, blacks and silvers. Vallejo is the way to go for this.

 

When it comes to golds, again ive used pretty much all there is (i have 22 golds on my dropper shelf and that doesnt include any of the GW, reaper or more exotic golds. If you want good golds with one coat coverage with silky characteristics, you need the S75 Metal And Alchemy paints. specifically - Decayed Metal, Necro Gold, Viking Gold, Dwarven Gold. don't bother with their elven gold its shit. These paints will basically replace all your gold paints from now until the day you stop painting.  These can be supplimented with "fine gold" from Darkstar (darkstar have wonderfuly shiny metals and golds, but are only really useful as final highlights due to shit coverage) i use Fine Gold from Darkstar to apply final dots of sparkling gold.

 

whihc leaves red metals. bronzes and coppers etc. funnily enough for these Citadel is where you need to be looking. their range of bronzes and coppers is unbeatable AS LONG as you're properly mixing the fuckers up up because they fall out of suspension far too easily. shaking is rarely enough, i have a Trumpeter cheap stirrer which does the trick.  Vallejo coppers etc suck, Scale75's suck, stick with citadel for these.

 

Moving into exotics like laquers and enamels like AKs True Metals is a completley different beast which im not going to cover in this post because its another essay in itself.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQHK5q5HGbM/

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All the metallics on here were done with Vallejo colours (silvers) and scale+darkstar (golds). the rusts were watercolour pencils and liquid pigments when needed by Lifecolor

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That's a very interesting post @Nicky, thanks. I've yet to pick up any metallics, but after tons of research I'm leaning towards the new formula of Vallejo Metal Color for steel/silver/iron, and Scale 75 for anything with colour. Your take on GW bronze/copper is interesting, as I have to admit that I love their hues, even all the golds (irrespective of any handling/coverage issues that I've read about).

 

I've already crossed the line and started picking up GW paint that I don't really need. So, I may as well aim to collect the whole set now. 🙄

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I’m a mix of the above, I’m a big fan of the Scalecolor metallic, they’ve been my go to for a while.  Around Christmas I picked up some Vallejo metal colour steel and it’s so good, because it’s an airbrush paint they use aluminium powder rather than mica (sp?) in it, so there’s no visible flakes.  And recently I picked up some of the AK Interactive true metals too, the waxes mentioned above… I may have a problem.

 

So for these titans I’m base coating the frame in the Vallejo steel, then using S75 coppers & brass to pick out details on it - pistons, vents, etc.  Oil washing the lot, and finally using the waxes to pick out some edge highlights.

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