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The Miniatures and Scale model appreciation thread


JoeK
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Back before Christmas I was lucky enough to win a starter set for Sphere Wars - it turned up yesterday, so I thought people might like to see it unboxed. As ever, my slightly ropy phone photography probably doesn't do the detail on the figures justice.

Sphere Wars are a Spanish company, with a range of figures and game of the same name. I did buy a few miniatures around two years ago when Tor Gaming distributed it, but at that time there weren't a decent set of English rules available and much like Hell Dorado it quickly faded from view. They've now had a proper translation done and are starting another push - I know Maelstrom are already stocking it over here, and I'd guess/hope others will follow.

SW_Starter.jpg

A woefully out of focus shot of the box.

SW_Starter2.jpg

And inside the box - all figures come grouped singly or by unit, along with bases (mostly the lipped style) and micro dice.

SW_Starter3.jpg

A selection of resin scenery - I assume to use as objectives.

SW_Starter4.jpg

The rulebook and stat card. One minor complaint is that the stat card is double sided, so short of holding it mid-air only one person can really look at their stats at one time. It's nothing a photocopier or printer can't fix though.

SW_Starter5.jpg

Inside the rulebook.

SW_U_Stevedore.jpg

Packs of Urueh: Stevedore. Comes with a choice of heads and left arms.

SW_U_Rider.jpg

Packs of Urueh: Rider

SW_U_Blowpipers.jpg

Packs of Urueh: Blowpipers. I had to include the bases in the shot as it's rare to see figures with 10mm bases.

SW_I_TaxCollector.jpg

Mercenary Women of Isha: Tax Collector

SW_I_Barbarian.jpg

Mercenary Women of Isha: Barbarian

SW_I_Guard.jpg

Mercenary Women of Isha: Guards

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  • 2 weeks later...

Folks, I don't know whether I can tempt you guys to spend a little money (:P), but I've done a silent release on those figures above (waiting for other gubbins before I go more mental with the advertising elsewhere). You get some pretty figures, and I get money to spend on making more pretty figures, so everyone's a winner. As a small incentive, if you type in RLLMUK10 on the order, you'll get 10% off everything on the site :)

That's all the blatant self-promoting I'll do today!

Cheers!

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I have done painted something!

ncfg95.jpg

These lovely Mad Maxy savages are from Em4's Future Skirmish range, very nicely detailed sculpts and very reasonably priced too:

http://www.em4miniatures.com/acatalog/SAVAGES.html

Will be grabbing a few more this Salute.

jug57a.jpg

The first recruits to my first gang - The Sump Dragons - soon to become underhive legends. The third chaps' green autogun is a metallic green paint gw haven't made since the mid nineties, it looks wonderfully Saint's Row :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

This year I have been alternating between tabletop quality army stuff and what I like to think as higher quality character models for which my range of choice is Malifaux. Each model has some interesting feature that requires a more thoughtful approach. And at the risk of incurring Wiper's wrath here is what I am working on this week:

6843672287_fa52deb7b1.jpg

And here's one I did at the beginning of the year:

6618977235_591df8de8f.jpg

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Ha, no wrath here - I've no quibbles with that model, as it perfectly fits its range. More importantly, it's a fantastic looking paintjob - I am, as ever, incredibly jealous of your ability with the brush. Lovely stuff.

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It does look great and highlights one thing I'm finding: washes are no good for clothes. They're in no way subtle enough.

Don't discount 'em. They can work absolutely brilliantly for cloaks and other stuff, but not usually by themselves. I always use a wash on top of a base coat and then work on top of that. If nothing else, a good wash allows you to see the recesses and folds much better. The trick is then to continue to use thin glazing on top of these after each highlight you put on. A really, really brilliant colour wash - which can be used on anything at all - is taking a pot of Gryphonne Sepia, and then added a few drops of Asumen Blue. Shake well, and you have a wash that can go on practically anything. Not as harsh as Devlan Mud, but deep enough to allow you to see the shades nicely.

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He came out really well Cocky :) . Love the skin tones. Only thing I would have done is put just a tiny amount of grass (well, a weed really) or something on the base for a little bit of contrast. Think it's your best yet though.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The Skeleton below is one of Otherworld miniatures. Personally speaking I think they are the best 'traditional' skeletons on the market. They remind me so much of the Jason and the Argonaut ones it's untrue.

Of course, it would never have been started had it not been for Mr Squiggle's spot of good news, and I did say I was going to pick up a brush this afternoon. So there we go.

DSC03511.jpg

Despite how easy Skeletons can be to paint up quickly (and when I was around 13 I had a 9000pt undead army that I can testify to the benefits of drybrushing!), I'm just finding it quite interesting to see what happens when you take a smidge more time on 'em. Of course, I'm not really one to spend days on these things, but we'll see what occurs with it. I should say that at the moment there's only been a light wash, one round of highlighting, and then another watery wash-over (just adding a little bit of green and purple into the mix too).

Enjoyable. Certainly moreso than those damn orcs which I now suspect I'll not finish for a very long time...

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It's taken me years to work out that all I needed was two £5 desk lamps and a big sheet of paper!

Honest that's it. My camara is my old Sony 5mp one I've had for years!

You're the first person who has ever said my photo is decent!

I may weep openly.

I love you :)

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Lol. Don't get too excited; there's room for improvement ;) But you've got your eye in. Shoot at 45 degree angles - get that lamp further round to the left and further away. You don't need the base in shot.

You should crop closer to the top of the head as well - don't waste the frame. You don't have to show all of the sword either - suggest the rest of the blade (rather than show it all) so that you have less canvas on show.

I'd definitely go for a shot with the tip of the blade in extreme foreground. Get your camera in close, put it in Macro (usually a flower symbol) and shoot with the sword pointing at the lens, only slightly off true, with focus along the length of the blade.

This should give a bit of depth of field (even on a compact) with the skel's head and body slightly out of focus. Give it a go, post the result :)

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I will, but only when I finish it off :P . I don't want folk to see the dodginess of the painting at this stage...I'm a very messy painter until the final strokes! Thanks for the tips though...I'll be using 'em.

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