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On 26/03/2021 at 13:06, TehStu said:

There may be more to this Switch Pro thing. I know we've mocked it with game sequel wishlists, but some are talking about an Nvidia mobile strategy that's inadvertently leaked here. I mean, makes sense with them also buying Arm.

I mean, the Switch Pro is 99% likely to exist, because of all the developer leaks, but I guess it remains to be seen if it's a running change like the Improved Battery Life(tm) model, a New 3DS style upgrade 'thing', or essentially a Switch 2. Or combination thereof.

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Had a mild panic attack on the weekend when I realised that the two game vouchers I purchased through Nintendo online had expired (I totally forgot I had them). Luckily customer support have extended each by a year. They also recently refunded me when I bought the Splatoon 2 DLC through the Aus store that didn't work with the game as I purchased it in the UK. I was expecting Nintendo to give me a hard time over both issues but they sorted them quickly. Phew!

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On 29/03/2021 at 21:04, Dig Dug said:

My left joycon is finally busted. It won't stop inputting left. What do?


You can buy just the left Joycon from Amazon, 

 

I tried to go down the route of replacing the thumb stick after seeing just how easy tiny fingered bionic eyed Youtubers made it look and fully fucked mine up in about 2 minutes by snapping a clip of a bit the ribbon cable sits in. I ended up getting a nice pair of Purple and Yellow ones 

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1 hour ago, CovisGod said:


You can buy just the left Joycon from Amazon, 

 

I tried to go down the route of replacing the thumb stick after seeing just how easy tiny fingered bionic eyed Youtubers made it look and fully fucked mine up in about 2 minutes by snapping a clip of a bit the ribbon cable sits in. I ended up getting a nice pair of Purple and Yellow ones 

I just bought the iFixit repair kit from Amazon then followed the iFixit guide, using exactly the same tools. It cost £20 for the kit, but gave me a confidence that I'd otherwise have lacked. With the right tools, it was pretty easy.

 

I can't imagine trying to do it with my fingers, it was spudgers and angled tweezers all the way.

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13 minutes ago, Alexlotl said:

I just bought the iFixit repair kit from Amazon then followed the iFixit guide, using exactly the same tools. It cost £20 for the kit, but gave me a confidence that I'd otherwise have lacked. With the right tools, it was pretty easy.

 

I can't imagine trying to do it with my fingers, it was spudgers and angled tweezers all the way.


Out of interest, what did you buy? I’d not normally have the confidence to do something like this myself, but hearing you express similar sentiments, and that you did it, does make me wonder if I could do the same to my broken joycon. 
 

(Which admittedly also has a broken dpad button, but I’m thinking - now that I’m drunk on confidence and gin - if I open it up, it might be obvious what needs doing)

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3 hours ago, CovisGod said:


You can buy just the left Joycon from Amazon, 

 

I tried to go down the route of replacing the thumb stick after seeing just how easy tiny fingered bionic eyed Youtubers made it look and fully fucked mine up in about 2 minutes by snapping a clip of a bit the ribbon cable sits in. I ended up getting a nice pair of Purple and Yellow ones 

Have you still got that knackered joycon PCB?

If so, wanna send it to me to tinker with? If I fix it, I'll send it back ( send me all the bits and I'll put it back together also ) if I can't, it will go in the spares box :-p

I've got a few dead PCB's laying around that I can try to desolder a zif connector from to try replacing it with, they are pretty easy to swap out the sticks, but... easy to one oerson is a nightmare for someone else, so totally understand how it could be damaged like that, guess I do tend to tinker with things quite often ( and break things as well ) so I've got a bit more experience at not mangling them :)

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9 hours ago, Popo said:


Out of interest, what did you buy? I’d not normally have the confidence to do something like this myself, but hearing you express similar sentiments, and that you did it, does make me wonder if I could do the same to my broken joycon. 
 

(Which admittedly also has a broken dpad button, but I’m thinking - now that I’m drunk on confidence and gin - if I open it up, it might be obvious what needs doing)


I bought these:

 

Ginkano 2 Pack Replacement Analog 3D Button Thumbstick Stick Joystick Rocker for Nintendo Switch NS Joy-Con Controller Joypad - 6 Extra Thumbstick Caps (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07W1NY21X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_2G7XCZZXE66W544ZQ480?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

iFixit Essential Electronics Toolkit, Basic Tool-Set with 16 Precision bits (4 mm), Magnetic Screwdriver & Opening Tools to Repair Electronic Devices https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MRNIFR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ZGQMVF20FRJT4XVA0YXB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

Nintendo Switch Tri Wing Screwdriver, Cemobile 1.5mm Y Head Y00 Tri-Point Tri Wing Screwdriver for Nintendo Switch Joy-Con Controller Repair, Samsung Gear S2 S3 Smartwatch Repair (Y00 Screwdriver) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078JSZBP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_2T0V7NZRMQGB5NSKJ797?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

Annoyingly the set of screwdriver heads that comes with the iFixit kit doesn’t include a Y00 Tri-wing. 
 

That gives you basically exactly the same tools as in this guide:

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Shimmyhill said:

Switch memory cards.... I assume there is no advantage to the super fast ones so spend money on space instead?


After a point, no - the Switch can’t make use of the extra speed of the faster ones. Just make sure it’s a reputable brand from a reputable seller.

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12 minutes ago, deKay said:


After a point, no - the Switch can’t make use of the extra speed of the faster ones. Just make sure it’s a reputable brand from a reputable seller.


Sandisk ultra or Samsung Evo plus good then or faster?

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There are benefits to using a U3 versus a U1 SDXC card, with the former being about as fast as the internal storage in benchmarks. However I have only used a U1 card and it’s fine. There was some confusion because the Switch only supports UHS bus version I (note that’s a Roman numeral), which is different from the card speed class. The newer bus has extra pins to allow higher speeds.

 

Edit - All of the Nintendo branded ones are U3 cards, although they’re still a massive rip-off compared to the other name brands.

 

Edit 2 - Eurogamer have some benchmarks which tell a different story, but they’re based on BotW where the load times are famously limited by the CPU decompressing all the assets, not the speed of the flash memory. 

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15 minutes ago, Parappa said:

Anyone had issues with the joycons coming loose very easily whilst playing in handheld mode?  My left one keeps removing itself and its very annoying! 

Yeah, it only happens when I try to reach the power button but it's definitely looser than it should be.

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17 hours ago, Alex W. said:

There are benefits to using a U3 versus a U1 SDXC card, with the former being about as fast as the internal storage in benchmarks. However I have only used a U1 card and it’s fine. There was some confusion because the Switch only supports UHS bus version I (note that’s a Roman numeral), which is different from the card speed class. The newer bus has extra pins to allow higher speeds.

 

Edit - All of the Nintendo branded ones are U3 cards, although they’re still a massive rip-off compared to the other name brands.

 

Edit 2 - Eurogamer have some benchmarks which tell a different story, but they’re based on BotW where the load times are famously limited by the CPU decompressing all the assets, not the speed of the flash memory. 


I ended up getting one U3 and one U1 (mainly as I needed a shipped from Amazon for a £7 off offer) and the U3 one has gone to my daughter and as it’s her main console if it offers any benefits then better for her!

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Bought a new pair of joy cons (the Splatoon green and pink ones), so I can finally post off my dreadful launch pair. Such a breath of fresh air just playing BOTW and not have to instinctively jerk backwards on the stick to stop Link ambling towards a cliff edge. 
 

However, I’ve learned that my actual body appears to block the Bluetooth on the right one. When I’m sat on the settee with the dock basically behind my head on a shelf (connected to a projector), input starts to lag and stop. If I twist myself round slightly so my skull isn’t blocking the way, it’s fine. 
 

Really crappy, considering I can control my PS3 from the next room if I so desired. 

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5 hours ago, Twinbee said:

However, I’ve learned that my actual body appears to block the Bluetooth on the right one. When I’m sat on the settee with the dock basically behind my head on a shelf (connected to a projector), input starts to lag and stop. If I twist myself round slightly so my skull isn’t blocking the way, it’s fine. 
 

Really crappy, considering I can control my PS3 from the next room if I so desired. 


My launch switch was like this. In the end I got another one a year or so later and it was night and day different.
 

The pro controller & joycon which had issues with the launch machine worked perfectly with the new one.
 

Even the Wi-fi signal on the new machine was about 2 bars better than the launch machine in the same location. 

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