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Any CRT fans on the forum? Monitors, broadcast, tvs


dvdx2
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Anyone into mid-high end crts? (Monitors, bvms, pvms, consumer sets)

 

Picked up a new Mitsubishi diamondtron to add to my collection.  It's a small 17" monitor, but throw in an SLG  / component to vga transcoder and the results are quite nice. Click 'download original image' for best quality from link.

 

https://postimg.org/gallery/lfa64htk/

 

I've a few other crt gems I can add pics of if there is any interest.

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Had loads, sold them then always buy another one. Hopefully a company starts to create some new CRT monitors specifically to run old consoles, as the old monitors tube geometry, screen burn out and wear/tear on the casing can annoy you. Where did you get the Diamondtron from? 

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43 minutes ago, ucci said:

Had loads, sold them then always buy another one. Hopefully a company starts to create some new CRT monitors specifically to run old consoles, as the old monitors tube geometry, screen burn out and wear/tear on the casing can annoy you. Where did you get the Diamondtron from? 

Nice eBay find - brand new boxed! £37 delivered.

 

was a joy to open it - 15 years old!

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3 hours ago, ucci said:

Had loads, sold them then always buy another one. Hopefully a company starts to create some new CRT monitors specifically to run old consoles, as the old monitors tube geometry, screen burn out and wear/tear on the casing can annoy you. Where did you get the Diamondtron from? 

Consumer TVs can be abit of a nightmare for getting geometry right (esp widescreen). On all my crt monitors/bvm geometry is fully adjustable. Unless you pick up a monitor which has had a hammering, tube brightness is usually excellent. Screen burn is always visible even when the monitor is off, so it's easy to avoid when buying.

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I've got two Sony Trinitrons (one wide, one not).  Annoyingly one has developed a defect whereby the speaker on one side only seems to output low end stuff, suggesting a tweeter has gone or something.  Lovely TVs otherwise.

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  • 6 months later...

Don't know where to put this, but I need some help/sympathy...

 

After years and years (and unfortunately after offloading my entire collection) I've finally been able to convince my wife that collecting retro is a good investment. So I'm officially back in!

Although we're not off to a good start...

QKsnyeP.png

This is how my BVM turned up yesterday. :(

I've had a look through various service manuals and I can see that most models share the same bezel assembly (ref. X-4035-199-1). How easy are these to source? I'm wondering if I can find someone with an old/fucked PVM/BVM that can donate their bezel - any good places to ask?

Besides that I'm wondering how cool it'd look with the bezel completely removed (Bladerunner effect)?

In the meanwhile I'll come back here with some more questions later. I want to rotate the yoke slightly - so will upload some geometry pics later.

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Sorry to see that dave,

 

I have seen bezel damage like that before - looks like it hasn't been properly raised of the ground in its box and been dropped in transit.  Bad dings can wreck the aperture grill. You could try and reseat the plastic of it's a clean break, respray it and live with it. If it's a 20f1e, it might be easier to find a vial of dragons Piss easier than a spare bezel.....but you never know.

 

If it still works, Try adjusting the 'rotation' in the service menu to see if that Corrects your screen tilt before yoke adjustment (although this can sometimes cause discolouration in a screen corner which an internal degauss can't remove). Depends how much yoke adjustment is required.

 

Big broadcast monitor followings on shumps/neo geo.com & neogaf and you could ask there 

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2 hours ago, dvdx2 said:

Sorry to see that dave,

 

I have seen bezel damage like that before - looks like it hasn't been properly raised of the ground in its box and been dropped in transit.  Bad dings can wreck the aperture grill. You could try and reseat the plastic of it's a clean break, respray it and live with it. If it's a 20f1e, it might be easier to find a vial of dragons Piss easier than a spare bezel.....but you never know.

 

If it still works, Try adjusting the 'rotation' in the service menu to see if that Corrects your screen tilt before yoke adjustment (although this can sometimes cause discolouration in a screen corner which an internal degauss can't remove). Depends how much yoke adjustment is required.

 

Big broadcast monitor followings on shumps/neo geo.com & neogaf and you could ask there 

 

 

Cheers. It's a BVM-1454D. Not really much talk about them online, especially in regards to servicing.

Regarding the rotation I've already been into the hidden service menu and there is nothing for rotation, so I ended up opening the thing up last night. The plastic ring at the very front of all that copper binding only needs a very slight push to realign the corners, but getting it to stay in that spot is another matter. I removed the two rubber wedges and then tried reapplying them but they don't seem to do the trick. Any ideas? Anything I can loosen and then tighten? Gotta admit I'm pantsing it fucking around inside with the power on - wearing rubber gloves and my safety boots for what good all that'll do me. :lol:

With the bezel I managed to clip it back in, kinda:

8fghwvfA_o.jpg

...and with some extra force I can close those gaps. Maybe I'll have a stab at soldering the back of the plastic one day in an attempt to weld it back together for a better finish:
gAhhJ4le_o.jpg

Apart from that... all good! Damn good convergence and the colour temps seem spot on to my untrained eyes. I'll sit it alongside my calibrated LCD to balance it further one day, perhaps. Te LCD is slightly warmer so maybe a pinch more red is needed.

I'm used to battered guitars and watches so I guess I can live with this crack for now. For €85 I suppose I'm still happy, but let's see what the seller says.
 
KvOOw2ie_o.jpg

Here's my testing setup (red because of NTSC Wii RGB). It looks blinding with the lights out. :) Might keep the Yamaha wired up even after my Sony speakers arrive, if only for those red lights through the grill.

2UHbLla4_o.jpg

It looks A LOT sharper than this in person - none of my phones or cameras can do it justice.


 

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Very nice - an 800 liner, very sharp indeed

 

just be glad it still works unlike this one!

 

https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50604

 

i'd tidy up the damage on yours and put an arcade bezel /movelist over it to hide the crack. 

 

some info on the model here, with a link to a pvm manual that is pretty much the same as your (but with less lines and no SDI)

 

https://www.dragonbox.de/en/657-sony-bvm-1454d-monitor-monitors.html

 

i'd post that query on the hardware section of shumps.  Hard to go back to scalers or consumer sets when you have seen the image quality these things put out. 

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That's who I bought it from. :) He's meant to be a really nice guy so let's see, maybe he will do a swap.

If not I can live with the crack I suppose, however this tilt is doing my nut in more...

zuFod4u.jpg

All I need to do is move the clamp thing a tad and the correction is perfect, however when I release it will move back of course (those rubber wedges are useless)... If I loosen that screw there to adjust and then tighten again will that fix it in place do you think? Or is that screw only for the convergence rings that sit in front of it?
 

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RjXy6UAG_o.jpgDkvHWNb8_o.jpg
dpxgrXOy_o.jpg

I think I'll have to live with this. It's about 94% there.

Could be doing with another half a degree of rotation. I've only just learned about A-board adjustments, but I don't have anything non-conductive in order to have a play around. I've got some jewelers screwdrivers mind, but I'd like to see my 37th birthday given the choice.

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17 hours ago, Fallows said:

RjXy6UAG_o.jpgDkvHWNb8_o.jpg
dpxgrXOy_o.jpg

I think I'll have to live with this. It's about 94% there.

Could be doing with another half a degree of rotation. I've only just learned about A-board adjustments, but I don't have anything non-conductive in order to have a play around. I've got some jewelers screwdrivers mind, but I'd like to see my 37th birthday given the choice.

Some nice tweaking there! I'd put a thin uderscan strip around each side, otherwise you are constantly going to be tweaking per systems as the RGB shift is different

 

Never seen a test pattern with the blue strip before.

 

now get some game pics up!

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39 minutes ago, dvdx2 said:

Some nice tweaking there! I'd put a thin uderscan strip around each side, otherwise you are constantly going to be tweaking per systems as the RGB shift is different

 

Never seen a test pattern with the blue strip before.

 

now get some game pics up!

 

The guy is sending me a new one for free. I get to keep this one too. :)

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I called into town to get 3x component/phono > BNC plugs - luckily the guy had exactly three left. I can't get my NTSC Wii to pass colour through RGB because to force PAL60 I need to use AnyRegion Changer which will only work with standard Wiimotes and not Wiimote+ ones, nor Gamecube controllers. :/ I'll need to try and borrow one from somewhere.

The quality with component vs RGB is easily noticeable. There's an S-video style ghosting going on, it's not excessive but it's there. I think you'll agree that this could be a lot sharper, with more faithful colours. Please ignore the weird angles, it's tricky capturing 15khz with this phone.

wkFmsgx0_o.png

oo7boVD3_o.png

jsbMQQlY_o.png

 

 

 

 

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On 03/10/2017 at 15:24, Fallows said:

I called into town to get 3x component/phono > BNC plugs - luckily the guy had exactly three left. I can't get my NTSC Wii to pass colour through RGB because to force PAL60 I need to use AnyRegion Changer which will only work with standard Wiimotes and not Wiimote+ ones, nor Gamecube controllers. :/ I'll need to try and borrow one from somewhere.

The quality with component vs RGB is easily noticeable. There's an S-video style ghosting going on, it's not excessive but it's there. I think you'll agree that this could be a lot sharper, with more faithful colours. Please ignore the weird angles, it's tricky capturing 15khz with this phone.

wkFmsgx0_o.png

oo7boVD3_o.png

jsbMQQlY_o.png

 

 

 

 

For best results from the Wii, you use a component to vga transcoder and output at 480p to a crt monitor. Nothing comes close.

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2 hours ago, dvdx2 said:

For best results from the Wii, you use a component to vga transcoder and output at 480p to a crt monitor. Nothing comes close.

 

I'm not going that far. I'm quite happy playing Wii/GCN content over forced PAL60 through RGB via. USBLoaderGX. As for RetroArch I'll be fine once I can force PAL60 there too (can't currently because AnyRegion Changer only supports standard remotes, which I don't have - need to borrow one). This BVM doesn't support 480p anyway.

 

For SNES stuff I had a 1chip SFC turn up yesterday. Just need the cables and an SD2SNES now. Reckon I might go for the packapunch one from RGC seeing as I've come this far.

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Ouch!

Thinking I might 'tate this boshed one if the wife'll let me keep it. :) Would need to then work on a RetroPi with RGB out. Christ, it never ends!!

Here's some RGB:

ykAIY8Yv_o.png

uZRwBclY_o.png

To6IodvD_o.png

 

LXZzOnRQ_o.png

A lot of the colours are peaking into whites with the exposure on this phone's camera (Link's pink hair). I tried taking some snaps with my DSLR but the refresh rate on the display just fucks the job up totally, need to look into that further. 

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Those are more like it. :) Some very nice shots. How do you get the lines so thick on your BVM? Do you drop the RGB gain/bias and then boost the contrast or something?

Well, my replacement turned up today...

Dv1V5m3.jpg

The box was all beaten to shit despite the fragile stickers. :( The side of the casing has a huge dent in the side, so I suspect it's taken a severe knock in transit. It probably doesn't help that it was loaded onto the UPS van upside-down, either. There also seems to be some stationary noise/dirt which resembles burn-in on the screen.

I really have the worst luck with this CRT business. First that Trinitron with the busted RGB in, now these two BVMs. At least this second BVM has the bezel intact so I can possibly try switching them around if I'm feeling brave. I'm really not sure of the process but I'm hoping it can be done without having to remove the CRT itself. The service manual isn't very clear.

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The higher the TVL the thicker the scan lines the 14e5e is a 900 liner.

 

Terrible luck - if it's any consolation I had pvm 20L4 turn up with a busted logic board which reduced it to scrap so I know the feeling of loss... lol

 

have you tried degauss in the bvm? Or is it tube damage?

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I have no means of a manual degauss, so I'm playing with the purity now. That's my day cut out for me. I've managed to score the landing, but the convergence is now needing a lot of refinement.

 

Shit myself when I dislodged the yoke. 21 years of factory setting paint is not easy to budge! I then had to perform some very careful precision chiseling on the purity/convergence rings to separate them.

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6 minutes ago, dvdx2 said:

Taking the bezel from that one you have just received and putting on the other seems like a good bet. 

 

It looks like a monster job though man... I think I have to remove the tube to get to the front assembly. To avoid removing the anode cap the bottom board would have to come out with it at the same time.

I honestly sat here for almost two hours last night studying the diagrams and the build itself. Way too many plastic clips and circuit boards for me to piss about with. There could even be some de-soldering required along the way, who knows.

I'll spend today on this convergence and see how far I get. I'm going to perform the adjustments sat down and with a mirror for aid, so I should make tons more progress than I did last night at 1am.

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14 minutes ago, Fallows said:

 

It looks like a monster job though man... I think I have to remove the tube to get to the front assembly. To avoid removing the anode cap the bottom board would have to come out with it at the same time.

I honestly sat here for almost two hours last night studying the diagrams and the build itself. Way too many plastic clips and circuit boards for me to piss about with. There could even be some de-soldering required along the way, who knows.

I'll spend today on this convergence and see how far I get. I'm going to perform the adjustments sat down and with a mirror for aid, so I should make tons more progress than I did last night at 1am.

Yeah - big job 

 

personally I'd just make do with the one with the cracked bezel (as you have a cracking picture) and if you can't get the issues sorted of the newer one, just keep it for parts. I'm sure you could doctor the other one up to look fine. Remember these things are old - most have imperfections, such as cracks, screen burn, dents, chips on the glass, and many other things due to the age of the tube. 

 

Dont stress about it mate and start to enjoy! 

 

 

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