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The Eagle Lord

Painting Tips

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I couldn't find a dedicated thread for this so i thought i'd make one (sorry for all the new threads i keep making).

 

I'm currently painting some Goblins that have black cloaks.

 

I've based in Abaddon Black.

 

Now i went into GW and they sold me some Dark Reaper to highlight it. 

 

How the hell do i do that?

 

Do i gently paint down the ridges with it or something? 
 

Someone please help this useless noob out. 

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On 28/10/2018 at 10:42, The Eagle Lord said:

I couldn't find a dedicated thread for this so i thought i'd make one (sorry for all the new threads i keep making).

 

 

Lol, it's on the first page! 

 

On 28/10/2018 at 10:42, The Eagle Lord said:

I'm currently painting some Goblins that have black cloaks.

 

I've based in Abaddon Black.

 

Now i went into GW and they sold me some Dark Reaper to highlight it. 

 

How the hell do i do that?

 

Do i gently paint down the ridges with it or something? 
 

Someone please help this useless noob out. 

 

@The Eagle Lord

 

Black is tricky (but just wait until you start working with white...) and if you want varied tones you most often want to prime in black, then start highlighting with dark grey. 

 

Rather than type it all out, i'll just point you to how Sorastro did Darth Vader for Imperial Assault :)

 

 

 

Essentially you were right, though: mix your black with your grey and paint the raised parts so that a contrast is achieved. You should build it up in stages, creating an even tone, so go dark -> lighter in a few steps, allowing it to dry inbetween.

 

But yeah, watch the vid and copy Sorastro verbatim, basically :D

 

 

I'd recommend watching his entire series to pick up painting tips. he's the clearest and best painting instructor I've come across on YouTube.

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Regarding painting on the sprues, I never do it, personally. Some do, but I can't understand why you would. What do you do about the nobbly bit of bare plastic you must get when you snip the painted bit off the sprue? When do you remove mould lines?

 

Painting in sub-assemblies isn't a bad idea - basically removing the bits from the sprues, partially assembling them and painting them like that before finishing building them. This allows you easier access to areas that are covered when the model is fully assembled. There are drawbacks, though.  It's easy to lose track of where you've got the light coming from on an unassembled model. More commonly, you might find that when you assemble the painted model, there's a big gap you need to fill with green stuff, which you then have to paint to match the rest of the mini, which can be really difficult.

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2 minutes ago, The Eagle Lord said:

Thank you very much.

 

 

 

NP, keep coming in and asking for tips. Getting started is tricky!

 

@And, I haven't watched the Warhammer vids - sorry if I looked like I was ignoring your advice! I will have a gander at them. I always go straight to Sorastro as a recommend, just because he's so clear and affable, and his pace and level of detail feel spot-on to me :)

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So after about a year of not painting I decided to give it a go again recently. I think my eyes are too fucked though. I've always been really shorted sighted (-6 or so) which doesn't help with fine detail work as my glasses make everything a little more distant than it actually is. I can paint without my glasses on for short periods but it tends to make me go googly eyed and ends in a headache. On top of that I've started to go a bit long sighted now too.... So I can't hold anything too close now as it goes out of focus. Anyone in a similar situation? Would one of those fancy pants lights with a built in magnifying glass help? I'm loathe to spend too much money as I'm not much of a painter but at the same time I'd be sad to completely give it up as a hobby.

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Perhaps one of those magnifying glass headsets would help? Although you tend to have to wear them like glasses so I'm not sure how you would wear them with your actual glasses. 

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7 minutes ago, feltmonkey said:

Perhaps one of those magnifying glass headsets would help? Although you tend to have to wear them like glasses so I'm not sure how you would wear them with your actual glasses. 

 

Cheers, I'll take a look at those. I could cope with just being short sighted but going long sighted too is making it far more difficult to paint than it should be. Getting old sucks.

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1 hour ago, moosegrinder said:

There should be space behind the magnifying headset lense for glasses. I'll.have a look at mine when I get back.

 

Thanks moose :)

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Ok, so I just checked and there would be a good bit of clearance if you wore glasses. Just for full disclosure I don't wear glasses (I tried it with a pair of my other halfs old glasses, so looking through those and then through the magnifier was a bit weird) and this is the one I have https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006BU3V68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

They aren't the cheapest thing to take a punt, but there are some that are and I don't know if there's a difference aside from the price.

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Fwiw they can be a blessing and a curse, because you can get right in there and get the details but they also make apparent things you wouldn't see normally and spend time on stuff that doesn't matter. I do think the ones I have were worth the money in the long run though.

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Any tips for assembling metal and resin miniatures? I've only ever done plastic one-piece or GW minis with nice slots before with plastic glue.

 

Need to stick the hands on 1 metal and 1 resin and I think the wrists will be too thin for pins but superglue by itself seems like it would be very brittle? Also likely to squidge out the sides when I inevitably use too much.

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I don't bother with pinning for anything other than large heavy models. Instead I use my hobby knife to score the surfaces to be glued which increases the surface area and the strength of the bond.

 

For applying the superglue I first put the glue onto a metal dental pick then use that to apply glue onto the model.

 

All of these tips and more can be found in a video I made ^_^

 

 

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Scoring surfaces is a good shout, I'm currently building a citadel resin model and its horrible, nothing lines up, had to use a fair bit of green stuff to back fill

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Also remember there's glue, and then there's glue.

 

If I bought Woolworth's own superglue I'd deserve it when the arm of my Infinity heavy Infantry fell off. The stuff is crap, and worth every penny of it's $1.99 pricetag.

 

Instead I buy the Locktite brand from my local hardware store. It's $7 but oh so worth it. I've never had it break on me, and have put off putting together larger minis for two weeks because I only had the crappy Woolworth's brand and couldn't get to the hardware store.

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