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The Rllmuk Photography Thread


PeteJ
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2 hours ago, FishyFish said:

 

If you can scan linear TIFF files / DNGs, there's a new plug-in for Photoshop called Grain2Pixel. It's free and seems to produce pretty nice results out of the gate - certainly better than I'm getting when using Epsonscan, Silverfast, or Vuescan to convert the negatives.

 

Here's and example of an Epson V550 scan (using Epsonscan software) vs a linear tiff made in Vuescan on my Plustek 8100 and then converted in Grain2Pixel. It's on Kodak Colorplus.

 

The second image if the Grain2Pixel conversion. It's not been edited apart from some sharpening and dust removal.

 

50255837292_3f60a637f8_z.jpgCan you float- by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

50254991503_4e9044c8f4_z.jpgCan you float--2 by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

That’s really impressive. I saw a few of them on Flickr.


What do you mean by linear? I scan on the Epson V550 without any sharpening or colour correction, just inverted. So I get a really blurry, washed-out blue image. Then I use the levels tool to colour/contrast correct.

 

I’d like a better scanner as the Epson leaves vertical colour streaks - as every scanner tends to. I’ve thought about lab scans but it doesn’t seem worth the extra cost unless I decide any are worth printing.

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40 minutes ago, Monkeyspill said:

That’s really impressive. I saw a few of them on Flickr.


What do you mean by linear? I scan on the Epson V550 without any sharpening or colour correction, just inverted. So I get a really blurry, washed-out blue image. Then I use the levels tool to colour/contrast correct.

 

I’d like a better scanner as the Epson leaves vertical colour streaks - as every scanner tends to. I’ve thought about lab scans but it doesn’t seem worth the extra cost unless I decide any are worth printing.

 

I could be showing up my lack of technical understanding here (:)) but a linear scan for these purposes would be a non-inverted scan of the negative, so what you get is the image looking the same as the negative does to the naked eye, complete with orange mask. You could get the same thing by photographing the negative with a digital camera. It captures the full range of tones in the negative. You can then use Grain2Pixel to convert it to a positive. Scanner sorftware does this automatically, but the results aren't always the best.

 

I'm using Vuescan, which works on both my Plustek and Espson scanners.

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23 minutes ago, FishyFish said:

 

I could be showing up my lack of technical understanding here (:)) but a linear scan for these purposes would be a non-inverted scan of the negative, so what you get is the image looking the same as the negative does to the naked eye, complete with orange mask. You could get the same thing by photographing the negative with a digital camera. It captures the full range of tones in the negative. You can then use Grain2Pixel to convert it to a positive. Scanner sorftware does this automatically, but the results aren't always the best.

 

I'm using Vuescan, which works on both my Plustek and Espson scanners.

I think it’s more my lack of technical knowledge. I don’t know any of the terms for anything. It makes sense now.


Vuescan sounds like something I might try. The Epson software isn’t great. I’d like to try Grain2Pixel too but I’m a bit worried about adding anything to Photoshop right now as it’s barely functional as it is (slowing down and crashing every 15 minutes).


I don’t think it matters, though, whether the negative has been inverted or not, as you don’t lose anything by simply inverting. I sometimes invert slide scans to see dust and crap more easily to repair them.

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Not a particularly interesting photo but my colour correction method seems to be working well as long as I've got a pure white in the photo. All I do is use the white balance eye droppers in levels (or curves). Set black to black (the border does for black), white to white, and it usually just snaps to the right colours.

Summer

 

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Been a little while since I posted anything in here.  Still ticking along with stuff I don't love, but here and there I get a half decent one:

 

117292748_751902932243425_45806212278318

 

118143067_319966885939298_54157098347785

 

118005713_137926221340054_57863289662364

 

118586429_736931977146224_25214951037943

 

I'm still just using Instagram to host everything and I've taken to editing most of it on an iPad. I figure most people will see them on a phone or tablet screen and that Apple are probably the single most popular manufacturer out there so if they look alright on that then it's good enough for my purposes.   I do want to get a bit more into portraiture but I'm struggling to figure out how to do it. 

 

 

 

 

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I think I got lucky as it was high tide and quite windy so the boats were moving around quite a lot, I was probably only there for five minutes before they arranged themselves in this pattern.  It’s still a heavy crop of the original but which was taken on a 35mm equivalent lens. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i have not posted anything photography related in a while, and I've never posted a pic of my nephew (nor would I if you could see him) but, I took this yesterday..and well...I just felt like sharing. Yes its simple, but sometimes simply capturing  the moment is what photography is about...

 

b.thumb.jpg.ab3ba888cd2a1fb629ef7ffa23159a7f.jpg

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16 minutes ago, 5R7 said:

i have not posted anything photography related in a while, and I've never posted a pic of my nephew (nor would I if you could see him) but, I took this yesterday..and well...I just felt like sharing. Yes its simple, but sometimes simply capturing  the moment is what photography is about...

 

b.thumb.jpg.ab3ba888cd2a1fb629ef7ffa23159a7f.jpg

 

It doesn't matter if it's simple (and I don't think it is), it's a very nice portrait. Well done.

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We have a street photography competition every year at my work (I'm a teacher so it's open to a number of schools and separate competitions for staff and students) and I really enjoyed it last year. It makes you look everywhere for potential shots and can give focus to mundane walks through town. Last year, I came runner up with a picture I got whilst travelling in Japan (Nagasaki) for the theme 'Structure' 

 

 

Nagasaki-min.jpeg

 

So, I went into it not know anything about street photography, and still don't really. Any tips for this years competition that is just about to start? Not sure of the themes yet.

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13 hours ago, erhgiez said:

We have a street photography competition every year at my work (I'm a teacher so it's open to a number of schools and separate competitions for staff and students) and I really enjoyed it last year. It makes you look everywhere for potential shots and can give focus to mundane walks through town. Last year, I came runner up with a picture I got whilst travelling in Japan (Nagasaki) for the theme 'Structure' 

 

 

Nagasaki-min.jpeg

 

So, I went into it not know anything about street photography, and still don't really. Any tips for this years competition that is just about to start? Not sure of the themes yet.

 

I'm very much an amateur, but I don't really think there's much to know about *street* photography specifically that doesn't apply to photography more generally. Your picture here works because it's so full of contrasts (the different colours in the top and bottom halves of the image, the messy wires over the beautiful sunset, the natural flowers that have been placed in an unnatural setting, etc.) and contrast often makes for a good picture.

 

Beyond that, I'd say street photography gives you the opportunity to capture some interesting geometry, and speaking for myself, I often find that I'm attracted to shapes and parallels. It also gives you more of an opportunity to capture people going about their lives, but I often feel that lots of these sorts of shots - shots of people on buses, shots of people sat in cafe windows, shots of lots of people crossing the road, shots of homeless people, and so on - can end up feeling a bit cliched, so you need to find something worth capturing.

 

As for individual artists, I like the work of Henri Carter-Bresson a lot, not so much because it's street photography, especially, but because it's just good photography: technically excellent shots that tell a story and/or evoke an emotion or sensation.
 

Spoiler

 

Henri%20Cartier-Bresson.jpg?itok=WHfwLY-

 

image.png.ee537b43ec02c87edcf80ecad2f0aa19.png 

 

image.png.3cfba190103f59bd62cece3c0346c407.png

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Swallow said:

Ah, lovely. I spend a bit of time in Devon (this year excepted) and have been meaning to explore Exmouth. I will definitely have to visit next time I'm down.

 

Yeah, it's a nice beach, although it was exceptionally pretty yesterday. I'd recommend the cycle ride along the estuary from Exeter to Exmouth, or just the walk if you can't be bothered to get on your bike ;)

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I've gone back to just removing the orange mask on negatives manually using levels. I'm not bothered anymore if the colours are accurate to the film. I'm doing it just by eye, which isn't easy on a cheap monitor (I did calibrate it, but it keeps fucking up and reverting for some reason so I'm not sure if I'm looking at a calibrated picture or one that's too warm). 

 

 

SlurpThames PathSouth Ealing Cemetery Entrance

 

I'm finding the colours on slide film to be more problematic. All slides scan too blue and Velvia has weird magenta/cyan colour casts in the darks and lights which are a real pain to remove:

Putney River Walk

 

50380434187_8996b81da9_b.jpg50452222663_c279752c6c_b.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Jamie John said:

Anyway, I got some good clouds at the beach yesterday:

 

DSC_0247.thumb.jpg.a3241b13f96bc7400d8bced92c3c2336.jpg

 

DSC_0239.thumb.jpg.dcc0939304bc2bd0172f8e7f5f5a000d.jpg

 

DSC_0249.thumb.jpg.6c20777c56a435c25bbc176b533c7477.jpg

My local beach :)

 

nice shots. The rocks can be quite tough to shoot in my opinion. I rarely get shots there I'm happy with but perhaps I need to try again! 

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On 12/10/2020 at 22:06, Monkeyspill said:

I've gone back to just removing the orange mask on negatives manually using levels. I'm not bothered anymore if the colours are accurate to the film. I'm doing it just by eye, which isn't easy on a cheap monitor (I did calibrate it, but it keeps fucking up and reverting for some reason so I'm not sure if I'm looking at a calibrated picture or one that's too warm). 

I'm finding the colours on slide film to be more problematic. All slides scan too blue and Velvia has weird magenta/cyan colour casts in the darks and lights which are a real pain to remove:

 

 


I think you’ve done a great job with those. Velvia 50 has a purple cast to it most of the time anyway - I think it’s just the way it is.

 

Velvia 100 scans with a red cast in the shadows - it’s apparently known as “redvia” in some quarters for this reason. I use a curves adjustment to remove it.

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1 hour ago, FishyFish said:


I think you’ve done a great job with those. Velvia 50 has a purple cast to it most of the time anyway - I think it’s just the way it is.

 

Velvia 100 scans with a red cast in the shadows - it’s apparently known as “redvia” in some quarters for this reason. I use a curves adjustment to remove it.

Thanks. The slides are actually Velvia 100. I mistakenly thought it would be easier to deal with than Velvia 50 but I was wrong. (Yes - it’s more of a red cast than magenta.)

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9 hours ago, Monkeyspill said:

Thanks. The slides are actually Velvia 100. I mistakenly thought it would be easier to deal with than Velvia 50 but I was wrong. (Yes - it’s more of a red cast than magenta.)

 

This is what mine tended to look like. The curves adjustment made a big difference.

 

This is how it scanned:

example-resized.jpg.cd2787ee695130ada8b76f819e74b0c3.jpg

 

This is after a curves adjustment:

984856590_example2-resized.jpg.11a77880cac5d67efe71ff88497c3287.jpg

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13 minutes ago, FishyFish said:

 

This is what mine tended to look like. The curves adjustment made a big difference.

 

This is how it scanned:

example-resized.jpg.cd2787ee695130ada8b76f819e74b0c3.jpg

 

This is after a curves adjustment:

984856590_example2-resized.jpg.11a77880cac5d67efe71ff88497c3287.jpg

 

That's interesting. I think I must be doing something wrong when scanning because my Velvia 100 - and in fact all my slides - come out nothing like that. Here's a raw Velvia 100 scan (jpeged down to a small enough size):

 

img271.thumb.jpg.d4800a12b01762f5b450084d940b58ca.jpg

 

It's really washed out. Even when adjusting the rgb values in levels it's not just a case of increasing the saturation and removing the red cast. there is often a cyan cast in the light areas (not visible here) and a blue cast over the whole slide.

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12 minutes ago, Monkeyspill said:

 

That's interesting. I think I must be doing something wrong when scanning because my Velvia 100 - and in fact all my slides - come out nothing like that. Here's a raw Velvia 100 scan (jpeged down to a small enough size):

 

img271.thumb.jpg.d4800a12b01762f5b450084d940b58ca.jpg

 

It's really washed out. Even when adjusting the rgb values in levels it's not just a case of increasing the saturation and removing the red cast. there is often a cyan cast in the light areas (not visible here) and a blue cast over the whole slide.

 

How do you scan yours (scanner model / software etc.)?

 

I've got a couple of scanners - an Epson V550, and a Plustek 8100 - and use Vuescan when scanning E6 film. However, the software gives me different options dependent on the scanner used based on it's capability. I've not scanned any 120 Velvia 100, but found some 120 Provia 400 transparencies to be a complete PITA to scan well using the V550 and Vuescan.

 

So far, the Plustek and Vuescan are giving me pretty good results for 35mm transparencies straight out of the scanner.

 

I think the images I posted above are post-Lightroom, so the one with the red cast has probably still had some editing done on it.

 

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